Mobil 1 - recommendations???

[philby]

I'm still breaking in the O'l Terri, at 5500K, and was thinking about giving it an oil change, simply due to my old life of M/bikes. Have been a fan of Mobil 1 for may years simply due to the thrashing the bikes got and never had any issues.

I've always changed the oil in my bikes at between 5 & 10K using Mobil 1 and never had a single engine problem. (GPX250 100,000K - CBR600 - 80,000K - GSXR750 - 80,000K & GSXR1100 40,000K). Now I know the oil spec for Mobil 1 is not quite within the existing range for the Terri, so should I hold off for a bit but change to a closer fully synthetic type (5-30W) from memory I think Mobil 1 is (5-50W) being the respective viscositys at different temperatures. I have forgotten the exact meaning for 5-50!!!! I know it's related to Visco but old age has dulled my memory.

Anyway what do you all think??? - will mobil 1 void the warranty???? should I stick to the Oil type currently being used in Terri's which is non synthetic????

I normally change the oil in new bikes early, rather than later or am I being over cautious or anal!!!

By the way - Yes this is my first car, all the rest have been company cars and really - I couldn't give a dam for them as long as they started!!!

[The Taipan]

Just been through the same thing for my 15000km service and decided on Caltex Havoline Premium Plus 10W-30. I looked heavily at a Penzoil product that was 10W-50, but after talking to a few Ford techs, and ringing one oil company, and after getting opinions from a few newsgroups and forums, I discovered that most "experts" felt that a 50 would be too viscous and therefore spoil the operation of the Variable Valve Timing on the sixes.

If you look at the viscosity levels at high temp 100 deg C the Caltex product at $22 was a lighter oil than the equivalent Castrol Magnatec (and even the TypeR stuff!), yet is a later generation of oil and offers a greater level of protection.

Basically after my research - I found that the minimum requirement is an SJ and CF grade of oil (Mobil 1 exceeds that level - as does the Caltex one). The first figure refers to the oils viscosity at sub-zero temps and is a reflection of startup viscosity. Higher the numbers the thicker the oil. 10W as recommended by Ford will take more battery power to start in cold conditions than a 5W for example, but really there aren't too many places in Oz where this should be a big worry. Generally speaking the thicker the oil, the better the protection, but with a higher grade oil SL vs SJ for example the SL offers better protection every time. The high figure (30 as recommended by Ford) refers to the operating temperature viscosity. Again the higher the number the thicker the oil. The reason a low-viscosity oil is recommended in the Ford six, is related to the clearances between the moving parts being much finer. Both of the Ford techs and the guy from Caltex's info-line suggested that the VVT operation may be the most vulnerable part to a thicker oil. It may just be increased fuel consumption, but it may also go so far as to jam up the valves altogether!

Previously I had always believed that synthetic was definitely better, but the consensus from everyone who offered me advice was that as long as you were sticking to the 15000km service intervals there is absolutely no advantage to synthetic (even the oil company dude said this). If two oils meet the same grades, one is synthetic and one is mineral or combination the only difference will be the price.

Castrol Magnatec is the standard Ford oil it is a SJ/CF 10W-30 and its viscosity rating at 100C is 14.6.
The Caltex Havoline Premium Plus (the one I chose) is a SL/CF 10W-30 with an "st100" of 12.0.
Penrite HPR10 (the one I was interested in buying before I did the research) thickens up to st100 of 18.8 and is also SL,CF rating.
Your Mobil 1 5W-50 is SL-CF also, but the 50 puts the viscosity at 100C to an st of 17.5.
Mobil 1 offer a 10W-30 though - perhaps this may be the oil you need - its viscosity level is a low 10.0, but with an SL rating should according to the people that advised me, offer the same level of protection as all of the others.

Other oils worth a look, but don't offer their st100's on the internet are Shell Helix Plus ECO10 (10w-30) and Motul 8100 Ester E-tech LITE 0W-30 or Motul Motion 10W-30.

One more point with the Territory I overlooked - it has a 7 litre crank oil capacity, this means you need 2 bottles!

Good luck with your decision, my conclusion is that anything is better than Castrol's Magnatec and Typre R stuff...

Simon.

[philby]

Thanks Taipan - The info is much appretiated, based on this and your research I won't be using the 5 - 50!!!

Not to happy about the lower visco at 100deg for the Mobil 1 either, while it's an oil I trust I don't want to cause any problems. So I kinda like your recommendation, SL/CF rated with correct viscosity. I'll do a bit more research as I've also found it pays to stick with the larger oil companys for improved consistancy (batch to batch).

Thanks Phil

[The Taipan]

I have learnt so much about oil over the last week or so by asking these same questions, and I'm sure that I have only just scratched the surface, but it has been really interesting to be able to see through the magnetisms, the free cricket bats and stuff and get to what is going to give me good protection for the next 15000km until I change it again...

[TerritoryLover]

The recommendation on Mobil's website is to use Mobil 1 10W-30 (they don't actually have the Territory listed yet but this is the recommendation for the Falcon).

[johnydep]

Previously I had always believed that synthetic was definitely better, but the consensus from everyone who offered me advice was that as long as you were sticking to the 15000km service intervals there is absolutely no advantage to synthetic (even the oil company dude said this). If two oils meet the same grades, one is synthetic and one is mineral or combination the only difference will be the price.

Castrol Magnatec is the standard Ford oil it is a SJ/CF 10W-30 and its viscosity rating at 100C is 14.6.
...

Simon.

Full Synthetic POA or Ester oil is deffinetly better, in offering better fuel economy as well as improved performance and increased engine protection.
All major car manufacturers that build a performance vehicle fill the sumps of their engines with a full synthetic oil from day one.
Holden fill the sumps of their engines for local sale with a Group 3 mineral oil, yet their export vehicles get a full synthetic, why? to keep the cost down for the local product. The oil will still do a good job as long as you follow the manufacturers recommendations, but that does not mean that it is as good as a full synthetic oil.

I don't think that the Ford standard fill is magnatec (thought it was caltex), but if it is magnatec, change it now.
Oil analysis showed that the wear particles in my engine where getting to a worrying level, the second analysis, at about 5000km, came back with a warning on the tin levels.
Since changing my oil to a POA synthetic all wear levels have dropped significantly.
My analysis results; http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=6663

And a great thread started by The Taipan; http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=8465&page=1&pp=15

If you like Mobil1 use the 0w40, I have read some great articles on the stuff, it is also the Porsche Cayenne's factory fill & recommended oil.
Territory Lovers recommendation is a good one as well.

[The Taipan]

I reckon your right about the synthetic being better, but at the end of 15000km they are supposed to be still meeting the exact same standards - who cares which one is better when you throw it out???

The oil analysis thing is very interesting. Where did you get that done? How often should it be done? How much does it cost?

The Caltex guy and especially the Ford guys seemed very supportive of trying an oil of thicker viscosity actually, but they expected it would return poor fuel consumption, in fact one of the ford guys was said some very favourable things about Penrite's HPR10 10W-50, but I chose to err on the side of caution...

Its interesting that with the thinner Castrol oil (Ford guys call it magnatec, but it is ever so slightly different bulk order variety) you are getting some degree of wear - is this just normal bedding in? With the thinner viscosity - but supposedly higher protection levels of the Caltex stuff I chose, it certainly would be interesting to check.

[johnydep]

I reckon your right about the synthetic being better, but at the end of 15000km they are supposed to be still meeting the exact same standards - who cares which one is better when you throw it out???

The oil analysis thing is very interesting. Where did you get that done? How often should it be done? How much does it cost?

The Caltex guy and especially the Ford guys seemed very supportive of trying an oil of thicker viscosity actually, but they expected it would return poor fuel consumption, in fact one of the ford guys was said some very favourable things about Penrite's HPR10 10W-50, but I chose to err on the side of caution...

Its interesting that with the thinner Castrol oil (Ford guys call it magnatec, but it is ever so slightly different bulk order variety) you are getting some degree of wear - is this just normal bedding in? With the thinner viscosity - but supposedly higher protection levels of the Caltex stuff I chose, it certainly would be interesting to check.

Like you mention, any oil that meets the Ford specs Ford WSS-M2C910-A1 will be more than adequate.
I'm just after extra protection, better fuel economy & less wear.

The high wear particles are from the engine bedding in and were still within useable specs, the Caution was because the tin level was rising faster than normal.
I reckon all new engines should have the first oil change at 5000km.

The next oil analysis will tell more, shouldn't be too long now.

Check your other thread in the General section, I have put some detail on oil analysis there.