Quote:
Originally Posted by rondeo
Thanks for a truly gearbox warming story!
Clutch engagement seems a likely suspect in fluid blackening. Wear products in the fluid reduce its lubricating quality and form deposits.
Given the expense of fluid changes, maybe some oil quality guide would be handy. Age degredation maybe explains maximum 3 years between changes specification. Removing the filler plug on top of the transmission and poking a bamboo skewer or suchlike might help in deciding to change or not before the 60000km specified interval.
City driving and many clutch engagements vs highway driving might mean it's likely not always necessary to change fluid early. With mainly highway driving the fluid looks pretty clean in mine.
When you think about it, the fluid is doing two seeming contradictory jobs: allowing the clutch plates to engage without slipping, while at the same time lubricating the gears. No wonder it stinks like it does.
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Same thing with motorbikes. On the two strokes I used to race, the oil had to lubricate the gearbox and the wet clutch.
And on (most) four stroke bikes the oil has to lube the engine, as well as the gearbox and the wet clutch. Some used to be largely oil cooled too.
Interestingly, on our race bikes, the gear oil usually stayed pretty clean, except on Kawasakis. It would get really black really quickly on them.
I guess on the DCT 450s we have, the fluid has to operate hydraulic servos too.
When I worked in the oil industry, we used to send oil samples off for analysis. If you were really fanatical or fastidious I guess that could be an option.
To me, the Powershift transmissions seem to be very reactive to anything less than perfect conditions. By that I mean minor faults seem to cause major symptoms.
And professionals seem to see them as a golden goose. Every time I've heard anyone talking about quotes to repair them it's always excessively expensive. Even wreckers want around $4000+ for a second hand one, without mentioning the fact that you can't just fit a second hand one and expect it to work. It won't, the TCMs are VIN coded.
So for myself, I'll probably change the fluid a bit more frequently. Maybe even yearly, after the boxing day sales when the fluid is a bit cheaper.
What's really annoying is that the primary filter on the suction side of the oil pump can't be changed without removing and pulling down the entire transmission.
It's frustrating because you can actually see and touch it by just removing the plastic cover on the valve body. And you can buy a new one for around $40.
I have read in a you tube comment that someone managed to lever one out and squeeze a new one in while still installed. I'd like to get hold of a transmission and see if it can be done.