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Old 10-08-2019, 07:01 PM   #17
JasonACT
Away on leave
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: ACT
Posts: 1,731
Tech Writer: Recognition for the technical writers of AFF - Issue reason: Outstanding work on the FG ICC issues. Technical Contributor: For members who share their technical expertise. - Issue reason: The insane amount of work he has put into the Falcon FG ICC is unbelievable. He has shared everything he has done and made a great deal of it available to us all. He has definitely helped a great deal of us with no personal gains to himself. 
Default Re: FORD technical service bulletin : ICC touch screen display

Quote:
Originally Posted by raceteam View Post
I did some reading on these a while back and it was said they were made by Sumitomo.

It would be interesting to know if the entire module dies, or just the actual touch screen itself. If anyone has one with a blank screen, check to see if the FDIM shows up on the MS-CAN bus.
Good point. I had read "they" wanted the TFT LCD part back for exchange, but upon more research, that whole component is the ICC. Looking at the schematics, you can tell if the whole unit is broken by testing the 8 buttons (temp-, temp+, fan-, fan+, air-dist, AC, auto & demist) since they go through the ICC and out the CAN bus. If they don't function, the entire ICC is shot.

I pulled off the cover of my ICC today to take a picture. I'm thinking the +12v wire is a candidate for some big-fat voltage regulator (a few amps?) I can add in to protect it from any spikes (the yellow wire on the end):



I can see in the bench test picture of the "exchange" web-page (with 8 LCDs) they have a plug with 4 pins connected. Those would be the +12v and ground, with CAN-H and CAN-L.

I've made a picture, with the connector and each wire's function:



Here's one of the ACM too (I'm thinking of mucking around and disconnecting and grounding some wires to remove the annoying hiss from the audio unit):



I'm pretty sure the +12v is constant too (not going through a relay, but it does go through a couple of fuses). Which makes sense that simply connecting up a fully charged battery (or a started car for a jump-start) will immediately send through the killer voltage. My thoughts are still with the LCD (or its backlight) drawing more current than can be handled by a voltage regulator, once the caps are fully discharged and power is reapplied.
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