[TK-421]

i just did the conversion to my forte ser1 this is the doco i followed from another member, except for the relearn procedure mine worked fine without it but i will add it incase. i paid $130 for the complete setup from ebay and now enjoy driving it even more.

Installing cruise control, AU1 6 cyl.

First, make sure you have all the parts, you should have
Wiring loom to suit cruise control,
Cruise buttons and rear trim for steering wheel,
Combination switch,
Brake master cylinder pressure switch,
Cruise control module (big thing with throttle cable hanging out of it),
Assorted nuts, bolts and screws.

Tools needed,
10mm socket and spanner,
5 point torx bit (or a flat head screwdriver),
8mm socket (for the bolt that goes into the rocker cover to hold the cable on),
T50 torx bit (standard 6 sided) for the bolt that holds the steering wheel on, and preferable a breaker bar to crack it with,
Philips head screwdriver,
Flat head screwdriver.

Disconnect battery (I didn’t, but you are better off doing this just to be safe),

On either side of the steering wheel are 2 plastic plugs, behind these are the 5 sided torx bits. There are 2 options here, if you haven’t managed to get hold of the required torx bit, you can modify a flad headed screw driver (or screw driver bit to go into a t handle driver) I also found with using a t handle driver that you don’t really even need to cut the middle out of it (although I did anyway) because you can get enough force on it to turn them. Undo the bolts, and the airbag assembly will come out of the wheel. On the back there is a yellow wire coming out of the airbag that is attached to the clock spring, unplug this and remove the airbag from the car.

Next is the steering wheel. With the key out of the ignition, turn the wheel until the steering lock activates. Then get the T50 torx bit and breaker bar and loosen the bolt off (you may not need a breaker, but it’s up to you). Unscrew the bolt most of the way, leaving it in a few turns so the wheel doesn’t come flying off the steering column and smack you in the face. To get the wheel off you may have to give it a few smacks from behind, some of them take a bit of effort, also it seems to help if you pull towards you from the bottom of the wheel.

Once you have the wheel off, you will see the clock spring, there is a wire coming from this to the steering wheel that you will need to unplug (probably before you remove the wheel). You need to remove the shroud surrounding the column next. It should have 3 philips head screws in the bottom section and 2 in the top section. The combination switch has 3 10mm bolts holding it to the steering column, remove these and unplug the wiring loom from the bottom of the column. You can then remove the combination switch and clock spring together as one unit.

Once off the car, you can remove the clock spring from the old combination switch and attach it to the new one, it only has clips holding it on, no tools needed. Once you have the clock spring attached, you can reinstall the new combination switch. Install is just the reverse of removal. Once you get to the steering wheel, before re attaching it to the car, remove the 3 screws holding the backing piece to the wheel. You can then remove this, but before putting the new one on, remove the screws holding the old volume control buttons to the wheel and remove them. Then fit the new volume and cruise control buttons, the wiring goes around the back of the wheel, that’s why you have to wait to put the new cover back on. The volume buttons screw back into the holes they came out of, but the cruise ones are a bit harder as they have no thread in yet. The alloy of the wheel is soft enough so as you screw the screws in, it taps a thread itself. You can then attach the new backing piece to the wheel and re install the wheel to the car.

Installing the airbag is simply the reverse of removing it, when I did mine, I made sure I wasn’t sitting in front of it at any time, but I didn’t have the battery disconnected. If you like you can replace the torx bits with normal allen key or even 6 sided torx bolts, I didn’t bother, but it’s up to you if you would like to.

Now for the module and wiring loom. The easiest way to remove the large orange plug from under the dash is to drop the fuse panel out of the way. Remove the fuse cover and undo the 2 screws holding it in, then unclip the bottom of the fuse box and pull it forward and down. If you then look straight in, you will see the big orange plug. This has a small tab on top of it holding it into the car, slide the flat head screwdriver slightly under this tab and slide the whole plug off the car. The grey clip unclips from the top of the plug, I think you need the screwdriver for this too and it raises up as you remove the plugs from each other. Unplug the plug from the brake pedal switch too.

You can then push the big rubber bung out from the firewall, just follow the wiring from the orange plug to where the bung is and push around the edges first. Under the bonnet you need to unplug the low brake fluid level switch, the wiper motor and the oxygen sensor. You can then feed the whole loom back into the cabin and remove it from the car. Feed the new loom in the way you removed the old loom and plug the oxygen sensor, wiper motor, brake fluid level switch and put the brake pressure into the master cylinder. When you remove the plug in the master cylinder you will need to bleed the master, to do this, I got someone to sit in the car, with the pressure switch in, but not done up tight I got them to press on the brake pedal very slowly until a small amount of fluid came out the thread where the pressure switch goes, this was enough to get rid of the small amount of air in there. You can then plug the pressure switch wiring plug in.

Then press the big rubber bung back into the hole in the firewall, this is done from the engine bay side. You can then install the cruise control module. To the rear of the coolant header tank, where the bonnet release cable comes out of the panel, there are 3 small round holes and a larger oblong hole. The 3 round holes are where the cruise module attaches. Feed it in between the strut tower and the brake booster, you may need to move it around to get it in there, it is sometimes a bit fiddly. Once in, put the 3 10mm nuts that should have come with it on and tighten them up.

Then plug the module plug from the wiring loom into it. Then, to attach the cable to the rocker cover it’s easiest to remove the last section of the intake pipe. You can remove the whole thing if you like. To the rear of where the throttle cable attaches to the rocker cover is another plain hole. This is for the cruise cable holder. Hopefully whoever you got the kit from has included the 8mm bolt that screws into this hole to attach the cable. If they have, simply hold the cable there and with the bolt straight, screw it into the rocker cover, keeping as straight as possible. Once again, this bolt will cut its own thread as you screw it in. When you have the bolt in tight, clip the grey end of the cable onto the attachment on the throttle body, then reinstall the intake piping.

Ok, now for the orange plug. Plug it in the same way you removed the other one, and make sure it’s attached securely. Then slide it back onto the tab to hold it in its position. You can also plug the brake pedal switch back in. On mine I had an extra plug near the accelerator pedal for a clutch pedal switch, this should have a plug in it, closing the circuit. If not, simply use a piece of wire (speaker wire will be fine) to bridge it out, if you don’t do this, the cruise won’t engage as it thinks the clutch pedal is depressed. You can then reinstall the fuse panel and replace the cover.

Reconnect the battery and do the relearn procedure, I will include it anyway,

Start the car,
Idle 2 min in park a/c off,
Idle 2 min in D a/c off,
Idle 2 min in D a/c on,
Idle 2 min in Park a/c on,
Drive under various throttle conditions and test out your cruise control if you like.

Enjoy