View Single Post
Old 09-09-2019, 09:25 PM   #23
Luke Plaizier
Lukeyson
Donating Member1
 
Luke Plaizier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Maitland, NSW
Posts: 2,586
Default Re: Fiesta WP 2004 won’t start

Some ignition barrel pics.

Right side of the column where the key goes in. While not part of our current troubleshooting just yet - of interest the black plastic ring around the barrel is an inductive loop that activates and reads the code from the key. Other than the cutting of the key which unlocks the barrel itself, it's the 'coding of the key' that allows the car to start. If the key isn't coded, but is cut correctly so the barrel rotates, the starter motor should fire but the car won't start. In your case you get no power on the OBD2 so other than not being able to start or get lights on the dash, we are treating that as our key symptom for why we think it's either the main ignition fuse or the ignition barrel.



The connector for the ignition barrel, though, is on the left side of the column.



The next two pictures are of the connector from the loom - as I couldn't get in behind the connector on the barrel to take a good shot.

The loom connector has the numbers on the front of the pins if you look closely. 1 is at the top, 7 at the bottom.



And the back showing the wire colours:



And finally, the diagram showing the pin number and wiring colour. Note that this shows something in pin 3, but my connector does not have that, and the picture in a previous post for testing doesn't use pin 3 either.




So:

(1) Get your multimeter and check pin 4 with the Red/Black wire in it on the loom connector. With multimeter -ve on a reliable earth, that pin 4 should read 12V. If it doesn't we have a problem with the supply from the battery, which includes that fuse in the Battery Junction Box.

(2) Follow the test table in a previous post on the pins in behind the connector on the steering column. Pin 1 at the top, pin 7 at the bottom. We are mostly interested in pins 1 and 4, and making sure we have a short circuit (If your multimeter has a 'logic'setting use that, and it should beep if there is a short circuit) when the key is in position II.

If you get no short between pin 1 and 4 with the key in position II, your ignition barrel is shot and you'll have to start to research how to replace it. It would be ideal if there is a way to keep your barrel which is what your cut keys match, and your PATS ring, and just replace the electrical switching mechanism. Most places will only sell the whole steering column. If it is removable, and you can find a place that will just sell the ignition barrel, that might give you something to experiment with.

If it DOES short, AND you get 12V on the loom connector pin 4, we'll have a bit of head scratching to do.

This last shot is the best I could muster showing the pins in the barrel connector....




Luke
__________________
If the human brain was simple enough to understand, we'd be too simple to understand it.

Last edited by Luke Plaizier; 09-09-2019 at 09:48 PM.
Luke Plaizier is offline   Reply With Quote
This user likes this post: