"Calibre" 10W 30 oil

The Monty · 03-10-2008, 10:58 AM

Just a heads up, used this on my last oil change, about 3-4000 k's in, car was starting to get noisy on start ups, sticky lifter would start sticking if I gave it any juice, etc. Should have emptied it right then, but waited for the 10 000 k's I usually do (mostly highway K's).
Anyway, after 10 000 relatively easy K's compared to usual (not much thrashing, no drag nights/skid pan days), and changed the oil to find it so black, and like dead set water, there is no resistance there at all, the oil is just dead.
So my little warning, steer clear of it, avoid it, Ive gone back to my Castrol.

Mr Hardware · 03-10-2008, 11:11 AM

Hi the Monty

If i'm not mistaken, Calibre is a Supercheap Auto inhouse brand. Like most things Supercheap makes, its utter crap.

Stick with castrol, and i'd say 10w30's a little light for brisbane weather...
15w40 is a bit safer.

zksi · 13-11-2008, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Hardware

Hi the Monty

If i'm not mistaken, Calibre is a Supercheap Auto inhouse brand. Like most things Supercheap makes, its utter crap.

Stick with castrol, and i'd say 10w30's a little light for brisbane weather...
15w40 is a bit safer.

Apparently Calibre is made by Caltex which is good. So far I've tried Penrite, Castrol Magnatec and Mobil, all have the potential for 15.000 kms or more. And Fuchs as well.

you don't have to spend big on synthetics to get good mileage from an oil. I'd stick to either mineral Mobil, Fuchs or Penrite.

webbiegareth · 11-04-2012, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zksi

Apparently Calibre is made by Caltex which is good.

I was just about to ask that one.... who actually make it. What grade is it? SN? SF?

I've used Penrite 10W50 in the commodore for the past 150,000km's with no issues (it's nearing 300,000km's now) and the Ford AU is currently on Penrite 5W40 but I'm worried about it being too thin so I'll put in 10W50 next time.

Strangely though Penrite have now changed from semi-synth to full-synth for their HPR range.

zdenko · 12-04-2012, 11:09 PM

I've been using Castrol Magnatec 10W40 in the Xr6 since I got it with 130000km's on it. Flushed whatever clean stuff was in it straight away.
33000km's later no issues to report, other than a slight oil leak around the front engine seal. It's so minor though I don't even need to top it up in the 10000km's I service the car in.

However, for quality oil, I use Elf Excellium 10W50 Fully Synthetic in my Mx-5 that sees plenty of track use. I have never had to top up oil in this car using this oil, and it's turbo charged and runs at some rediculous temperatures. Alot of the Mx-5 race guys use it, and it simply just works. Not easy stuff to find on a shelf any where though.
The car had Mobil 1 5W50 in it before, and I found the engine made alot more ratling noises when under stress with this in it. Probably to thin for race use.

The Monty · 03-10-2008, 11:14 AM

Thanks mate. I was using a 15W 40, but coming into winter I swapped to a 10W 30, just so it gets around the engine a bit quicker on startups, next change Ill swap back again (to be honest I actually forgot, lol).

Mr Hardware · 03-10-2008, 11:21 AM

Yeah i understand.

I run Castrol FMX 15W40 Semi-Synthetic. Works a treat. Unfortunately Castrol only supplies it to car workshops...

JoesAu · 03-10-2008, 05:22 PM

i wouldnt even use that oil in my whipper snipper! can you even call it oil! its garbage. you know what brands to buy and what not!

**Stav** · 03-10-2008, 05:32 PM

Theres only 2 oils I can recommend from experience.. Penzoil and penrite .

I can make a list of oils which made my car sound rattly as after one night at the track .I thought my engine would blow up..would I get home or would I have a car for work the next day??.. Oils are a surprising let down sometimes.

A few oils which had my engine rattly were poured in the day of racing .At the end of the night the engine sounded like an oil pump failed but it was the oil.
Valvoline semi synth.
Nulon..
Magnatec.
I can highly recomend no one use these oils if they want to keep their engines healthy.

blackers10 · 03-10-2008, 05:54 PM

im running a Fuchs oil at the moment.. so is deb .. no issues what so ever even stopped my tackity top end from what i have noticed

ill stay with fuchs or castrol edge .. both great oils from my experience

calibre is supercheaps own brand yes. probably made from re constituted vegetable oil LOL

JoesAu · 03-10-2008, 10:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackers10

im running a Fuchs oil at the moment.. so is deb .. no issues what so ever even stopped my tackity top end from what i have noticed

ill stay with fuchs or castrol edge .. both great oils from my experience

calibre is supercheaps own brand yes. probably made from re constituted vegetable oil LOL

can second that, Fuchs oil im using at the moment still going strong after a heap of kays, AU2PWR daniel recommended it to me hahah its great stuff

loxxr6 · 03-10-2008, 05:58 PM

What viscosity of oil should we be using ?

**Stav** · 03-10-2008, 06:05 PM

I am running gt street machine penzoil 20 50. It gets hot..it gets dirty but when you get some on your fingers they slip like it was new oil...no friction. After having spun a bearing in the last block I wanted the best possible oil. I believe that bearings and moving parts should last alot longer. Also I can race at wsid without rattles or worries of blowing the engine. The engine stays quiet..it likes it

I take around 10 minutes driving in the morning before I dare give it a hard time.

The Monty · 03-10-2008, 06:43 PM

Ive never had a problem with the Castrol one I use, only the Calibre one, and god help me if I ever use it again. I might ring the helpline up and give them a serve see if I can get my money back.
Just went for a drive with the new oil, bout 400k's, gave it a good flogging, not a peep out of the engine, no rattles, nothing.

The Monty · 03-10-2008, 06:45 PM

Should also mention that myself (and Stav?) are both over the 260 000 k mark.

**Stav** · 03-10-2008, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Monty

Should also mention that myself (and Stav?) are both over the 260 000 k mark.

For me ..the head is recoed.The bottom end is second hand.Either way Im not big on brands but what seems to work better. I hated the sound of metal clanking in my engine after racing .The penzoil does not do this.

Also notice the amount of metal flakes when you drain yor oil..it tells a story of how good the oil is.
The wagon passed 277000 kms the other day

private9 · 03-10-2008, 07:14 PM

I bought some Gulf Western oil from Supercheap the other day - $10 for 4 litres .... quality stuff!!!

SirHenry · 03-10-2008, 07:51 PM

I swapped from Pennzoil to Fuchs and notice a massive difference as soon as it was in. Currently I'm getting an extra 100kms per tank out of my car with no changes to driving or vehicle. Less rattles more fuels all I can say about Fuchs is WOW what an oil! Oil is just their stock Titan CFX 10-30

**Stav** · 03-10-2008, 08:16 PM

There are a few good oils out there. I havent used fuchs,royal purple or redline oils. Probably good but I dont want to risk it.

The Monty · 04-10-2008, 06:44 AM

What type of Fuchs oil are you using, as I couldnt find a 10W30?

SirHenry · 04-10-2008, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Monty

What type of Fuchs oil are you using, as I couldnt find a 10W30?

TITAN
CFX
SAE 10W-30

• Performance lubricant designed for superior fuel economy.

• Suitable for all driving conditions.

• Provides increased engine protection, cleanliness and performance.

API SM
ILSAC GF-3/G F-4

This is the one amigo, I found it very hard to find I know Budget Auto at Oxley here on South West side have it but if you give the Fuchs guys a call they can tell where the nearest retail distributor is to you. Bursons/Coventry Auto have I think as well, bought mine for around $35ish

Mr Hardware · 04-10-2008, 11:50 AM

IMO 10W-30 is too thin for a stock I6, unless its winter in Melbourne or something.
I don't think anyone north of brissie should run anything less than 15W40. We used to run 25W60 in the cabs! 15W40 is the best balance, if you're gonna dip on any side of 15W40 then dip on the 20/25w50 side, boys.

zksi · 13-11-2008, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Hardware

IMO 10W-30 is too thin for a stock I6, unless its winter in Melbourne or something.
I don't think anyone north of brissie should run anything less than 15W40. We used to run 25W60 in the cabs! 15W40 is the best balance, if you're gonna dip on any side of 15W40 then dip on the 20/25w50 side, boys.

If the manual recommends 10W30 then should be OK in any season providing you use quality (high performance) stuff like Mobil, Fuchs, Motul, etc.

My Hyundai and Mondeo recommend 10W30 for -20 to +40. If the engine is in sound condition then using a heavier oil may cause more damaged than good and compromise fuel economy.

blackers10 · 04-10-2008, 12:49 PM

i got mine from cov auto.. supercheap had it too

ebxr82nv · 04-10-2008, 03:10 PM

I use 10w-30 from ford. Don't know who makes it but my cars got 250,000ks on the clock and it does the job nicely, I generaly drop the oil every 5000 but I was lazy and let it go to 10 and the oil wasn't even that black. I can't complain about that.

BATRB-6 · 04-10-2008, 04:18 PM

Anyone tryed Royal Purple motor oil it’s available in 0W40, 5W20, 5W30, 5W40, 10W30, 10W40, 15W40, 20W50, SAE 30, SAE 40 and SAE 50 weights.

10W30 or 10W40 would be the choice.

http://www.royalpurple.com.au/html/s01_home/home.asp

V8falcons · 04-10-2008, 04:38 PM

I did a service on my SR wagon yesterday 251000k after using magnatec 10w-40 for 2 years every 10ks ,for what ever reason cold morning starts recently have become noisy so Ive changed viscosity and gone for 15w-40 GTX3 to see if it makes a difference.
She's still going strong.......

I did see that calibre oil in super cheap yesterday and wondered what it was like.Lucky I didnt pick it up hey!!!

ebxr82nv · 04-10-2008, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BATRB-6

Anyone tryed Royal Purple motor oil it’s available in 0W40, 5W20, 5W30, 5W40, 10W30, 10W40, 15W40, 20W50, SAE 30, SAE 40 and SAE 50 weights.

10W30 or 10W40 would be the choice.

http://www.royalpurple.com.au/html/s01_home/home.asp

Royal purple is good gear, however the only cars ive ever seen use it are rotorys. And it's not cheap $80-$100/bottle

rob_liss_lms10 · 14-11-2008, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BATRB-6

Anyone tryed Royal Purple motor oil it’s available in 0W40, 5W20, 5W30, 5W40, 10W30, 10W40, 15W40, 20W50, SAE 30, SAE 40 and SAE 50 weights.

10W30 or 10W40 would be the choice.

http://www.royalpurple.com.au/html/s01_home/home.asp

I used to use Penrite 10x40, started a slight leak,put in all the additives to stop it including Fuchs (engine honey?)stuff but the leak persisted. Recently I changed to Royal Purple 10x40. The leak has gone, I dont know if the oil had anything to do with that or the additives have finally done the trick. I change oil every 5000k. I also used to use K & N oil filters but have changed to Fram racing. The funny thing about Royal Purple is that the oil really is purple, quite freaky really. Haven't done a oil change yet so cant comment on what it is like after 5000k.

zksi · 15-11-2008, 02:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rob_liss_lms10

I used to use Penrite 10x40, started a slight leak,put in all the additives to stop it including Fuchs (engine honey?)stuff but the leak persisted. Recently I changed to Royal Purple 10x40. The leak has gone, I dont know if the oil had anything to do with that or the additives have finally done the trick. I change oil every 5000k. I also used to use K & N oil filters but have changed to Fram racing. The funny thing about Royal Purple is that the oil really is purple, quite freaky really. Haven't done a oil change yet so cant comment on what it is like after 5000k.

I'd choose AMSOIL over Royal Purple. Or ELF Excellium. These meet the latest specs.