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18-08-2014, 10:32 AM | #651 | ||
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: brisbane
Posts: 2,039
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As i have just purchased a AU XR6 SERIES 3, dec 2001, the info on here was so welcomed and informative...at the moment, the power windows are on the blink but i know how to fix them, boot struts arent on the car, and it looks like the brakes/rotors need to be replaced. But otherwise the car is brilliant..thanks for the info from all those that have or had an AU.
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18-08-2014, 11:57 AM | #652 | ||
Fossil fuel consumer
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Mod For: Pub, Bar, Sales Yard, Show 'N Shine, Photoshop, AU to BF, FG to FGX, Territory & Sports Bar
Posts: 17,027
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yeah pulling apart the AU window buttons is par for the course, i did all mine a year or so ago and it fixed them for the most part - also replacement buttons aren't that expensive at the wrecker
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18-08-2014, 01:42 PM | #653 | ||
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: brisbane
Posts: 2,039
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would have thought ford would have solved that little problem by series 2....
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18-08-2014, 01:53 PM | #654 | ||
Fossil fuel consumer
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Mod For: Pub, Bar, Sales Yard, Show 'N Shine, Photoshop, AU to BF, FG to FGX, Territory & Sports Bar
Posts: 17,027
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nope, lasted through all series
if it aint not broke, don't fix it :P |
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18-08-2014, 02:50 PM | #655 | ||
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: brisbane
Posts: 2,039
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Also, throughout all the posts..seems the power windows and the brakes/rotors were the main problem..seems to me that the driver is to blame for the rotors, as i have never had to replace one ever..methinks we have alot of lead foots here..lol
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18-08-2014, 02:55 PM | #656 | ||
Fossil fuel consumer
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Mod For: Pub, Bar, Sales Yard, Show 'N Shine, Photoshop, AU to BF, FG to FGX, Territory & Sports Bar
Posts: 17,027
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the problem is not with the drivers, it's a design flaw - i've owned 13 Falcons and they have all warped, except for the one i have now but it only has 12,700KM on it at the moment so give it time. Also has bigger brakes than any of the others being a Turbo so i'll wait and see. My AUs brakes are warped and are terrible from high speed braking situations.
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18-08-2014, 03:31 PM | #657 | ||
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: brisbane
Posts: 2,039
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Well maybe you have just proved my point, as i have never had it happen to me, as i have had a few fords through my life time, but then i have never thrashed my fords, and all ways allow for a proper stopping distance, unlike some whom i have driven with and try to stop on the dot. Or maybe you have just been unlucky..
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18-08-2014, 08:31 PM | #658 | ||
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: brisbane
Posts: 2,039
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Got my report/rwc today and
rear tyres are miss matched boot lid no strut rear brake lights dont work....had that done immediately..$30.. headlights are blue..not legal. tint is coming off 1 window passenger side power windows do not work park lights do not work rotors need machining lh number plate light no workee rear stubaxle rubbers perished no horn...... jax quick fit are doing the rotors and tyres for me tomorrow... |
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18-08-2014, 08:36 PM | #659 | |||
Fossil fuel consumer
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Mod For: Pub, Bar, Sales Yard, Show 'N Shine, Photoshop, AU to BF, FG to FGX, Territory & Sports Bar
Posts: 17,027
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Quote:
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18-08-2014, 08:40 PM | #660 | ||
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: brisbane
Posts: 2,039
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hey, fair enough..not trying to disprove, actually i wondered about the water on the open brakes/rotors when i was washing the car.
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18-08-2014, 08:54 PM | #661 | ||
Fossil fuel consumer
Join Date: Jul 2005
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Posts: 17,027
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yeah all good just sharing my experience ;)
my dads BA XT (manual) had the rotors machined three times in 110,000KM and to give you an idea how he drives, he was still on the original pads at that odometer reading. |
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18-08-2014, 09:00 PM | #662 | ||
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: brisbane
Posts: 2,039
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Maybe it has to do with the brakes and the rotors being exposed as compared to the EL ghia,s having that shielding on them..
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18-08-2014, 09:01 PM | #663 | ||
Fossil fuel consumer
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Mod For: Pub, Bar, Sales Yard, Show 'N Shine, Photoshop, AU to BF, FG to FGX, Territory & Sports Bar
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i had three EL Ghias, they all had warped brakes with the splash guards still on
my AU had them too, but the wheels are more open on mine so not the same really my FG only had them on the back due to the front rotor size from memory |
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18-08-2014, 09:06 PM | #664 | ||
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: brisbane
Posts: 2,039
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See here we go again, i have had my el ghia for 2 1/2 years, 280,000 and no problems there at all, and the rwc said the brakes were at 88% when i bought it and still have them on..could it be the weather, like i am in qld???
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18-08-2014, 09:20 PM | #665 | ||
Fossil fuel consumer
Join Date: Jul 2005
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i think you're just exceedingly lucky - but the rotors may have been changed on on your EL before you bought it
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18-08-2014, 09:25 PM | #666 | ||
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Location: brisbane
Posts: 2,039
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True could have been too..
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18-08-2014, 09:28 PM | #667 | ||
Fossil fuel consumer
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Mod For: Pub, Bar, Sales Yard, Show 'N Shine, Photoshop, AU to BF, FG to FGX, Territory & Sports Bar
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either way, AUs are great cars so you should have minimal issues - if it has IRS and you have a knock in the rear it may need upper shock mounts, they're notorious in AUs with IRS too
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18-08-2014, 09:31 PM | #668 | ||
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Location: brisbane
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from what i hear they are very good..and i will bear that in mind, get them checked any way..the rwc, didnt come up with that as a problem
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18-08-2014, 10:43 PM | #669 | ||
Fossil fuel consumer
Join Date: Jul 2005
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Neither did mine but they were dangerously stuffed
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25-08-2014, 12:44 PM | #670 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 31
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Hey Guys,
Just wondering if anyone knows a fix for the horn sticking. I have a 2001 AUII XR6. At the moment I have taken the horn fuse out, but when it is in the horn will go off by itself. I did have a dodge alternator at the time, would this have affected it? Thanks in advance.
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24NDR Liquid Silver - 2001 AUII Tickford XR6
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16-10-2014, 07:47 PM | #671 | ||
Guest
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 1,934
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Minor rust can develop under the rubber on the A pillar next to windscreen. Leaves etc... can fall on to roof, move to the gutter & get stuck on the way down.
Also having just removed my tailights I found a fair amount of hardened crap stuck under the top outer edge of the unit along with more of the same under the unit on the body with a trail between the 2. Also when I repainted my car I removed the mud spats. In doing so I found a whole heap of dried up mud etc...jammed up in the sill behind the spat (behind the plastic sheath on the wheel arch). I left the spats off after repaint so I can regularly Karcher these areas. The vent in the boot (left hand side quart panel behind plastic panel) had let in a whole heap of road dust. With age the rubber flaps in the vent don't seal properly. So I wrapped the unit in some cloth (toweling). I also found some open holes in the boot floor pan. Don't know why or what went through them but I blocked them up with liquid nails & some small squares of plastic. |
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17-10-2014, 11:30 AM | #672 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 9
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Well. I fixed it!
I mean, joining the dots afterwards is so much easier isn't it? You would think that a simple blown top radiator could be just that hey? Patch up and correct* fluid top up, on the side of the road, 10 kilometre easy run into a nearby town, pick up new hose, and coolant, fit it and everything would be good, wouldn't it? * trickle the water in with the motor running. Yes, I have seen some destroyed motors before…. When it got hot, it developed a miss, but the miss was down low and intermittent, and I still had another 700 km before I got home, so I put up with it, and the devastating fuel consumption. No oil in the radiator, no water in the sump, coolant wasn't getting lost, just #3 cylinder not firing and the occasional random miss from #4 & #5 cylinder, so, it could be worse..... And the miss became angry by the time we got home. It would shake the doors at idle sometimes, but still overtake with ease. When I got back, I decided to replace the plug leads because they were old and that would be the obvious thing to do. $62 later,,,,, Still missing. Same cylinders……Running better though. Do a compression check. All good, real good in fact. Get a set of codes out of the computer. $14 is a bargain from Supacheap. Clear the cache and get the current issues. Coil pack. $72 Replace it. Rotten job it is too. Still missing. Same cylinders….. Although it is running even better. Hit the forums. Hmm? Re-check the BIG book…. Ring a friend…… Talk to the dealer…….. Talk to another one…… This could confuse a genius, let alone a guy who has had as many head knocks as me! And the guestimates is more than what the old ute is worth….. They are obsessed with electronics and sensors and I am a bit challenged that way. Stop and think! This Ute ran well in winter, last summer it played up a little, the winter before it was good. The summer before I got it and gave it some TLC, but ran out of time and money concurrently. A service fixed the roughness each time, but it wasn't as smooth as in the cooler months. Heat related maybe? Possibly…. It has always been a bit sluggish and shy of torque quite low in the rev range, but rocketed in the mid and higher rev range when needed. Consumption around town wasn't impressive and on the highway it was reasonable but not exceptional. Others did better. And sometimes it would idle would be a bit high, and sometimes the air con wouldn't blow where needed…… Maybe a intermittent vacumn leak would explain all that…. So I get a pot of water, start her up and start pouring water over vacumn hoses. Nothing under the bonnet anyway. And the ones behind the dash are a no go zone unless I am desperate. So I start @ the inlet manifold gasket. And there you go! Leaking at #3, 4 and 5! New intake manifold gasket. $22. About 2 hours to fit. Made the coil pack look easy! I have a diploma in being poor, and am working on my masters in poverty, but for less than two tanks of fuel, ($172 in total) the old girl is crisp, responsive and leaps at a wriggle of the big toe on the throttle. But it is fixed! |
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18-10-2014, 11:12 AM | #674 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Kuranda,Cairns
Posts: 388
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Nice one Dinoquad!Did it take long to change the inlet manifold gasket?Did you have to take much off?
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18-10-2014, 12:22 PM | #675 | |||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Both the head and inlet faces were very clean and the old gasket fell off in pieces, so I was fortunate. Two hours all up from getting the ramps out to packing them up. Ratchet ring spanners and insensitivity to bleeding knuckles is required. |
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