AU II Falcon Problem....Please Help

troyboy · 27-05-2006, 11:19 AM

Hi Guy's.....Just Joined Great Forum

I Just Have One Question I'm Hoping Someone Can Help Out With ?

I have an AU II Falcon and like every other AU owner have major drama's with the Keyless Entry Remote. At the moment none of them are working, but it seems to be more than the battery coming away from the circuit board.

I have tried to re-program them by following the instructions in the manual, using the rear window demister (which I have done many times before) but this time its just not working. I press the demister 3 times in 5 seconds with the key in the "I" position and the doors arn't locking like they should.

Becuase they arn't locking, I am unable to use the remotes as I can't programe them. I looked in the fuse box, hoping that there was a smartlock fuse that may have blown, but nothing ?

Anybody got any idea's ? Ive been to Ford this morning and they arn't open on Saturday :(

Any Help Is Much Appreciated

Cheers
TroyBoy

bodes-sh · 27-05-2006, 04:49 PM

try pressing the demister button more that 3 times, the first time i did mine i kept pressing it until the locks cycled....oh by the way welcome

GlennBA · 27-05-2006, 04:59 PM

Those remotes always break. 2 of mine have broken, you can buy replacements off ebay for a fraction of what ford charge. As for getting the locks to cycle.. keep trying. It could take like 20 goes.

troyboy · 28-05-2006, 10:52 AM

Thanks guy's Ive spent hours trying but no luck....its like it just stopped working...

Rob · 28-05-2006, 12:27 PM

Regarding the problems with battery connection probs, just crack open the remote, fold some tissue up and sit it under the battery. Should keep it in contact. Blu-tack works too, but it leaves yuckies.

private9 · 28-05-2006, 02:13 PM

"I have tried to re-program them by following the instructions in the manual, using the rear window demister (which I have done many times before) but this time its just not working. I press the demister 3 times in 5 seconds with the key in the "I" position and the doors arn't locking like they should."

My AU3 is exactly the same! Won't bloody go into learning mode!
Still haven't been able to figure it out, so guess I'll be getting the next service done at a Fraud dealership!

XR6-VCT-2000 · 28-05-2006, 05:31 PM

Im just wondering maybe , if you guys that can't get the locks to cycle to reprogram the remote , maybe check your car battery and make sure it has enough charge , sounds like a problem mentioned elsewhere on here about people not being able to unlock their car with the remote ( battery was too dead to cycle the locks / allthough it would start the car ) .. just a suggestion - maybe , sounds like more than a remote problem imo if you cant get the locks to cycle when pushing the rear-demist button to start the procedure .

GK · 28-05-2006, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XR6-VCT-2000

Im just wondering maybe , if you guys that can't get the locks to cycle to reprogram the remote , maybe check your car battery and make sure it has enough charge , sounds like a problem mentioned elsewhere on here about people not being able to unlock their car with the remote ( battery was too dead to cycle the locks / allthough it would start the car ) .. just a suggestion - maybe , sounds like more than a remote problem imo if you cant get the locks to cycle when pushing the rear-demist button to start the procedure .

I'm tipping if the battery was that low, the problem wouldn't be with the remote, it'd be with the darn car not starting! LOL!

Open up the remote, replace the battery, check to see if the little metal terminals are still ok, sometimes they crack and need resoldering.

GK

troyboy · 28-05-2006, 08:42 PM

I'm not even getting to the remote....The doors arn't going through there cycling process. When I press the demister 3 times in 5 seconds the doors arn't locking, so I am not even getting to the stage where i press the unlock button on the remote....

XR6-VCT-2000 · 28-05-2006, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by troyboy

I'm not even getting to the remote....The doors arn't going through there cycling process. When I press the demister 3 times in 5 seconds the doors arn't locking, so I am not even getting to the stage where i press the unlock button on the remote....

Thats why i recomending checking your car battery , the central locking mechanism uses a fair few amps , and being the car is in accesories key position / and not with the engine running , everything while programing the keypad is relying on the car battery . Worth checking .

troyboy · 29-05-2006, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XR6-VCT-2000

Thats why i recomending checking your car battery , the central locking mechanism uses a fair few amps , and being the car is in accesories key position / and not with the engine running , everything while programing the keypad is relying on the car battery . Worth checking .

No probs..I might try that. Can I reprogram them if I run it through jumper leads off another car ?

XR6-VCT-2000 · 29-05-2006, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by troyboy

No probs..I might try that. Can I reprogram them if I run it through jumper leads off another car ?

Your not really supposed to use normal jumper leads on cars with ecu's anyway for safety reasons . But for safety sake though, imo i would just take out the battery and put in another battery to test with that you know is good ( 1 of the same size/rating or close as. ). At least then you know for sure you are getting the full amps and volts of the newer battery , no room for error like with running leads everywhere and creating resistance between the batterys with jumper leads ;) . Just be sure to have your code for the Headset/radio handy if you go disconecting the car battery , as you will need the code to get the factory headset/radio working again .

p.s , your demister does work yeah ? ..lol , make sure the light for the demister comes on when you press the demister button in / to make sure ya demister button isn't broken ! ..lol

XR6-VCT-2000 · 29-05-2006, 11:48 PM

Oh it just occured to me too , when i originally re-programed my keypad a while back, i also did NOT get a clicking sound from the central locking mechanism / instead my indicators/hazardlights flashed for a second to indicate it was in learning mode ! . And there is nothing wrong with my central locking , it all works fine and the keypad reprogramed no worries too. Just thought i would mention this as the artice i originally read ages ago about doing this procedure said that the central locking mechanism would make a click sound . Watch your indicator lights on the dash/speedo cluster while pressing the demist button procedure , and watch to see if they flash . Your model maybe the same as my setup ???

troyboy · 30-05-2006, 09:29 AM

Thats again mate...my battery is only 12 months old, my demister does work, the only clicking i hear is when i turn the demister on/off/on/off/on/off.

I rang ford last night and asked them...useless as . He told me that it does run through a fuse but dosn't know which one....and these blokes service my car :|

Ive told my missus to walk into ford and tell them you want to put the car in...when they ask whats wrong with it, tell them the remotes cant be programmed....then see if they have a quick look at it straight away.

bodes-sh · 30-05-2006, 06:24 PM

ok, i dont know if you have tried this but.....when the manual says 3 times in 5 seconds, it really means 3 times in 5 seconds, ie space the presses so you do it 3 times in the 5 seconds, and faster or slower and it wont work...

clontarf_x · 30-05-2006, 07:08 PM

If the Indicators DONT flash and you don't have the door locks cycling. I would say U have a fault central locking module. Check all fuses as suggested before, and of course make sure u are getting a red light on your keypad to show there is a signal being sent to the car.

I would imagine it safe to assume if the red light comes on on your keypad when u hit a button and the car does crap all there is a fault within the central locking

off to a sparky for ye

XR6-VCT-2000 · 30-05-2006, 09:23 PM

Yeah true there as clontarf X mentioned , if your getting the red led flashing on the keypad/remote while pressing the buttons, then it sounds like a problem on the central locking side , not the remote/keypad .

Nurse Josh · 21-12-2007, 01:03 AM

Hi all,

A few hints-

- unlock car door with key- get in and close door
- within 5 seconds turn key to acc
- within 5 seconds press the demist button 3 times- firmly for about .5 sec each time
- wait for car to cycle lock / unlock
- press a button on EACH OF THE REMOTES YOU WANT TO PROGRAM. after each remote the vehicle should cycle lock / unlock

I found that i needed to reprogram all of my remotes- not just the new one!
Programmed the new one rendering the old one inoperable. program them all (up to 3) in the one hit.

Don't know if there is any reason why this process is more successful done this way- just my findings!

Battery holders coming loose from the printed circuit board is always been a problem. first try some foam / sponge between the housing and the battery holder. if this fails, like mine did go to jaycar electronics and buy yourself some conductive silver paste.
soldering the holder is too difficult with a domestic soldering iron- too hot and you will fry your components too!
file the terminals of the battery holder till its clean of the dry solder. apply the paste to both the terminals and the dry sockets. apply small amount of strong bond adhesive to the feet of the holder. line up the connections and press together.

takes about 2 minutes to do and it works...

Good luck

Cheers! Josh

GK · 21-12-2007, 01:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nurse Josh

Hi all,

A few hints-

- unlock car door with key- get in and close door
- within 5 seconds turn key to acc
- within 5 seconds press the demist button 3 times- firmly for about .5 sec each time
- wait for car to cycle lock / unlock
- press a button on EACH OF THE REMOTES YOU WANT TO PROGRAM. after each remote the vehicle should cycle lock / unlock

I found that i needed to reprogram all of my remotes- not just the new one!
Programmed the new one rendering the old one inoperable. program them all (up to 3) in the one hit.

Don't know if there is any reason why this process is more successful done this way- just my findings!

Battery holders coming loose from the printed circuit board is always been a problem. first try some foam / sponge between the housing and the battery holder. if this fails, like mine did go to jaycar electronics and buy yourself some conductive silver paste.
soldering the holder is too difficult with a domestic soldering iron- too hot and you will fry your components too!
file the terminals of the battery holder till its clean of the dry solder. apply the paste to both the terminals and the dry sockets. apply small amount of strong bond adhesive to the feet of the holder. line up the connections and press together.

takes about 2 minutes to do and it works...

Good luck

Cheers! Josh

Some good advice Josh.

You do need to reprogram all the remotes at once!

GK

curtleyw · 21-12-2007, 02:32 AM

I have posted this somewhere else but can't remember where so:
Press the button 3 times IE ON/OFF/ON.
I believe you are turning On/Off 3 times and this will not work.

GK · 21-12-2007, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by curtleyw

I have posted this somewhere else but can't remember where so:
Press the button 3 times IE ON/OFF/ON.
I believe you are turning On/Off 3 times and this will not work.

That's another good point, pushing the button 3 times total in 5 seconds is what's required. Turning off and on would actually be 6 times. LOL!

GK

FGII-XR6 · 21-12-2007, 11:47 AM

also if either the rear demister or interior light fuse are blown it will not enter programing mode ant there must be a globe in the interior light just to complicate things

james22 · 21-12-2007, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by au3xr6

also if either the rear demister or interior light fuse are blown it will not enter programing mode ant there must be a globe in the interior light just to complicate things

Wouldn't surprise me if you had to click your fingers and do a twirl too

fishmark · 02-09-2011, 06:44 PM

This may be an old post but just for reference to clarify the key position into acc. of aal the au's that I've dealt with there are 4 positions on key barrel O,I,II,III. that is O (for off) I (for acc) II (for ign) and III (for start) I think most people make the common mistake of switching straight to ignition(position II) instead of accessories(position I) hope this helps

Cheers and good luck

Mark