BA brakes onto AU... - Page 5

mattp · 29-03-2007, 09:34 PM

Are those new hubs/uprights JC? What condition were the bits you got from aussie cars in? They look like new now, I presume you painted them after you got them? Cheers, Matt.

JC · 30-03-2007, 12:28 AM

Hubs are brand new from Ozeparts, as my wheel bearings are shot. I didn't bother getting the hubs from Aussie parts, as for the price of these new ones, I'd prefer to know that they'll be good for the next few years.

All the parts were OK - definitely used, so I cleaned them up with a wire wheel on the drill, then prepsol, then painted using the cheapest spray I could find at Bunnings. Aluminium colour for the uprights, gloss black for the lower control arm, and red for the sway bar (actually used primer on that too). I used satin black killrust on the hat part of the discs.

The only thing Aussie Parts gave me that looks wrong is the small brackets for the swaybar (they look like AU1 ones - longer than AU2) and I got one 24mm swaybar chassis bush, and one 28mm one - which doesn't bother me too much, as I'm just going to put Nolathane ones in anyway.

JC · 30-03-2007, 12:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HLC

Hey JC, how did you paint the calipers? mine are in serious need of a new paint job... they have some red already on there flaking off but i wanna change the colour.. what sort of prep work did you do etc?

cheers

Wire wheel on the end of a drill gets most of the dirt/grease etc off, and small wire brush for the nooks and crannies. Then prepsol, then paint - I used engine enamel for the red bits, as I had half a can leftover from a few years ago. The black is satin black killrust (brush on stuff), cos I had that lying around as well. But any paint will work - the cheaper the better, I reckon.

JC · 31-03-2007, 02:31 PM

Rear brakes are on, but not without some dramas. Needed a 3mm spacer between the calliper bracket and wheel hub/axle assembly (otherwise bracket rubs on disc). Plus I had to machine about 2mm out of the housing so that I could turn the brake hose 90 degrees so it wouldn't foul on the shocks. Pictures to come later.

genebaby · 31-03-2007, 04:38 PM

Well done JC!!! You'll be fully BA braked before you know it!! Can't wait for the pics.

amiers · 31-03-2007, 09:55 PM

so guys im a little confused, please help.! i have read through the thread but.

as you would know i have an AU2 Fairlane, so if i wanted to upgrade would i use ba or bf xr8 fronts? are the xr different to the standard ba-bf?(calipers)
would i need to do the rears?, i currently have slotted disc's and good pads on the bum. if i do will they bolt straight on?

so in the end whtas the best combo. as im in the trade none of it will cost much so i want the best package.

thanks

JC · 31-03-2007, 10:36 PM

XT to XR8 all use the same brakes, but why would you say you fitted BA taxi pack brakes when you can say you fitted BA XR8 brakes!!!

BF brakes are bigger - and territory are bigger again. Front and back BA or BF or Terry brakes on an AU2 should be a straight bolt on job, but for an AU1, a lot of mucking around is required for the back, and of course the whole front suspension needs to be updated to AU2/3.

JC · 31-03-2007, 11:05 PM

BA Rears installed:

This shot shows the custom 3mm spacers required on an AU1:

Rear with wheel fitted:

JC · 31-03-2007, 11:11 PM

Front - AU1 suspension bits removed (apart from brake calliper so that fluid doesn't leak everywhere.

AU2 suspension bits and BA brakes installed (minus swaybar)

Fronts done

JC · 31-03-2007, 11:17 PM

Bled all brakes, but pedal pressure is a bit low, so there's a job for tomorrow, plus I have something rubbing at the rear that shouldn't be there. Brakes work well though, even with the longer pedal feel at the moment.

Total fitting time was 11 hours and included fitting my old rear slotteds to ZHodaks car, as well as adjusting his handbrake (which all took about 1.5 to 2 hrs). So 9 hrs from go to whoa. I reckon we could halve that next time, as "figuring out" time was as much as "doing" time; and yes, we used the instructions in the Ellery manual, but they didn't include dropping the front frame that blocks the control arm and a few other bits and pieces.

Oh, and you can use the AU rear brake lines with a small mod to the calliper housing that allows you to turn the brake hose 90 degrees. You would need AU2 or BA front brake lines for an AU1 (the AU1 ones are too short to reach).

JC · 01-04-2007, 02:53 PM

Made some spacers up this morning out of 25mm x 3mm Aluminium bar. Will fit these up later, as I figure a proper spacer has to be better than a couple of drilled out washers!

Still got a noise that seems to be once per tyre revolution, so will try and track that down at the same time.

StealthAu · 01-04-2007, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JC

Made some spacers up this morning out of 25mm x 3mm Aluminium bar. Will fit these up later, as I figure a proper spacer has to be better than a couple of drilled out washers!

Still got a noise that seems to be once per tyre revolution, so will try and track that down at the same time.

warped disc?

zhodak · 01-04-2007, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JC

and yes, we used the instructions in the Ellery manual, but they didn't include dropping the front frame that blocks the control arm and a few other bits and pieces.

It also din't mention that you don't need to remove the steering arm to get the lower right control arm off. You only have to turn the steering wheel to full right lock.

BTW JC, how is your aligment?

On a plus note, my brakes are way better now with slotted DBA's on the rear and the hand brake works now grabs better as well.

JC · 01-04-2007, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stockoau

warped disc?

I thought that initially, but definitely not. The gap is the same (zero) all the way around. Just fitted those spacers up and found the source of the noise - the tyre was rubbing on the brake line/hose. So a lesson learnt there - don't rotate the brake hose 90 degress, leave it how it was on the AU1 calliper. Mine is now massaged (hammered) back into place, which bent the pipe a little bit too (intentionally), so plenty of clearance now with the inside of the rim/tyre. So far going up the driveway and back, the wooshing sound is gone - the once per tyre revolution sound would have been the wheel weights hitting the brake line.

ZHodak - I didn't publicly thank you for your help. So thanks. 11 hours out of your day was greatly appreciated be me. And yes, the steering arm is a great trick for beginners - wheel alignment seems fine. Steering wheel is almost straight ahead (maybe 1 or 2 degrees off center). More importantly, the car doesn't dance all over the road any more. That front left calliper must have been causing it to dance over bumps and when braking.

Oh, and Daniel is fine now - 4 stitches, a steri strip and a shaved bit about the size of 20 cent piece and he's all back to normal (for those wondering - nothing to do with the car, one of my 3 yo twins fell off a chair backwards and banged his head on a 1/10 scale fire truck, splitting his scalp open - lots of blood).

zhodak · 01-04-2007, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JC

Oh, and Daniel is fine now - 4 stitches, a steri strip and a shaved bit about the size of 20 cent piece and he's all back to normal (for those wondering - nothing to do with the car, one of my 3 yo twins fell off a chair backwards and banged his head on a 1/10 scale fire truck, splitting his scalp open - lots of blood).

Good to hear, although I bet the fire truck is GMC.

No prob with the help.

AU dude · 02-04-2007, 12:46 PM

So how does the car pull up compared to the old brakes?

Now you have a good excuse to take it to a track and give them a good working out...

mattp · 02-04-2007, 01:29 PM

What's the difference between the series 1 & 2 rear suspension set-ups? To get the BA brakes to bolt straight up can't something similar to the front be done with changeover of uprights etc? Obviously might cost more, but just interested in finding out what the actual differences are.

Casper · 02-04-2007, 01:35 PM

rear suspensions have no differences (apart from the obvious IRS vs Coil Live vs Leaf Live) from AU1 to AU3.

JC · 02-04-2007, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AU dude

So how does the car pull up compared to the old brakes?

Now you have a good excuse to take it to a track and give them a good working out...

Pulls up quickly, and stays nice and straight while doing it. It's hard for me to compare fairly, though, as my left front calliper was seized, so anything is better than what it was.

It does feel the same as the wagon though, and I've laways considered that it brakes well.

JC · 02-04-2007, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattp

What's the difference between the series 1 & 2 rear suspension set-ups? To get the BA brakes to bolt straight up can't something similar to the front be done with changeover of uprights etc? Obviously might cost more, but just interested in finding out what the actual differences are.

Matt - AU1XLS had no prblems with his - they bolted straight up with no brackets rubbing on discs or anything. Perhaps this will be the case for yours. If not, then a 3mm spacer mounted between the rear of the hub and the calliper bracket solves the problem. We (me and someone else) think maybe the hub on the IRS is just different enough to cause this gap issue.

JC · 02-04-2007, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Casper

rear suspensions have no differences (apart from the obvious IRS vs Coil Live vs Leaf Live) from AU1 to AU3.

There is one minor difference - the mounting holes for the AU2 brakes are in a slightly different position between my IRS setup, and the AU2 wagon. Now this may just be the difference between AU1 and AU2, or between live and IRS rear ends.

philstoj · 02-04-2007, 08:36 PM

Though its not BA brakes, heres a few pics of my setup.
Fronts are BF XR PBR2 calipers and 322 mm rotors, rears are stock AU2.
Just painted them over the weekend so i thought id show them off.

Front.

Rear.

AU1XLS · 02-04-2007, 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by philstoj

Though its not BA brakes, heres a few pics of my setup.
Fronts are BF XR PBR2 calipers and 322 mm rotors, rears are stock AU2.
Just painted them over the weekend so i thought id show them off.

Front.

Rear.

Looking good nice and clean

philstoj · 02-04-2007, 11:09 PM

Cheers, yeah i was happy with the results, hopefully the paint stays nice for a while...I might give them another coat when i get some braided brake lines.

How did yours come up? Any more pics?

zhodak · 03-04-2007, 12:49 PM

After having real world test for a couple of days now and about 60km to work and home, how are the new brakes holding up now JC?

JC · 03-04-2007, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zhodak

After having real world test for a couple of days now and about 60km to work and home, how are the new brakes holding up now JC?

Yep - they are bl00dy good. Had to pull up rather quickly today (someone merged on top of me), and they worked a treat. Nice and strong, and nice and straight. I don't reckon I need slotted rotors with this setup, except if I decide to do some track work. But as the car's for sale now, that probably won't happen anyway.

AU1XLS · 03-04-2007, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by philstoj

Cheers, yeah i was happy with the results, hopefully the paint stays nice for a while...I might give them another coat when i get some braided brake lines.

How did yours come up? Any more pics?

Hoping to do front over easter

JC · 03-04-2007, 10:38 PM

Finished mine off this evening. The AU2 swaybar bracket has 4 bolt holes, but the AU1 chassis only has 2 bolts (on the outside of the rail). When I fitted it up on Saturday, I just used these 2 bolts, but the bracket rattled a lot, so tonight I drilled a 3rd, 10mm hole through the bracket, through the chassis and back through the other side of the bracket (being careful not to punch a hole in the extractors), and used a 10mm x 90mm high tensile steel bolt with the same self locking nut used on the camber/caster kits.

No more rattling, and the thing will probably be held on there better than the flimsy 4 x 6mm bolts that Ford use on AU2 to BF.

JC · 03-04-2007, 10:54 PM

Here are a couple of pics showing the bracket (a bit blurry)

And the bolts nice and clear (the outside ones are standard, the middle one is the one I put in.

amiers · 05-04-2007, 10:51 PM

ok guys, still a bit lost here, might be getting thick in my old age!!!

what size are the bf brakes( disc's) front and rear? and what size ba?.

will they all bolt straight on to a AU2?

do i have to change front and back or can i use the larger fronts and keep my rears?

p.s do i need new brake lines?