Track day set up for an XR8

Penarol1982 · 23-08-2011, 01:23 PM

Hi, i have an 2000 AU2 XR8 and im thinking of taking down to the track(like time attack) for fun with friends but im worried how the car will go.My mods are as follows , i've just got new bendix huty brakes all round and falken zeiz all around . Extractors and a full muffler setup and a dual cold air intake and flash tuned on a dyno also sport low lovells with monroe shock all round.... what will i need to do next ?

any ideas ???

james22 · 23-08-2011, 03:49 PM

Bigger brakes lol.

robbyj · 23-08-2011, 04:42 PM

I recently did a track fun day at winton motor raceway, is your car manual?
if not i agree with james, bigger brakes as they get one hell of a workout, and also some high temp brake fluid, i boiled mine at the end of the day after a 30 minute session.

Edit: also if you manage to come across some slicks or semi slicks, will make it so much better!

Day-mow · 23-08-2011, 05:15 PM

good brake pads, DBA rotors, high temp brake fluid.
also make sure all your radiator hose's are in good order.

Penarol1982 · 24-08-2011, 11:13 AM

its a auto .so brakes , any particular brand ? DBA's ? Drilled or slotted ? Both perhaps? whats the difference ??? high temp Brake fluid ? can i use that on the normal road after or do i have to replace with the normal stuff ? what about suspension parts , sway bars ? bushes ? do the AU XR8 have strut bar ?

Penarol1982 · 24-08-2011, 11:14 AM

Sorry , i forgot to thank you for helping me out .

robbyj · 24-08-2011, 11:31 AM

DBA and RDA brakes are much the same, i believe the main difference is DBA come finished in rust proofing? I have RDA slotted rotors and can't fault them.

The difference between slotted rotors and standard rotors is the slots in the rotor help the brake pads grab onto the rotor, slowing the car down quicker.

I presume you can use high temp brake fluid as per normal?

An appropriate sway bar will help with body roll, although i didnt find my AU in dire need to install a sway bar to correct any body roll
(not that im a racing driver by any means :p)

just make sure your bushes are in good condition

i dont think it has struts, so there would be no point of a strut brace, apart from looks

blueoval · 24-08-2011, 12:05 PM

Without spending a fortune, get a full wheel alignment and balance. At the same time, get the aligner to add some camber (up to a degree) to the front wheels and 1-2mm of toe in.

The camber will make your car handle better in turns without inducing understeer, and the toe in will make your steering a bit more responsive as you turn. It's a minor adjustment for the aligner while he is doing the alignment/balance and should not cost much extra. You can get aligner to return it back to normal after the track day is over.

I believe this minor change in your stock suspension setup will make your track experience more enjoyable.

Agree also on better brakes, slotted rotors, full fluid flush with Dot 5 fluid, high temperature brake pads are a MUST all round.

Day-mow · 24-08-2011, 07:22 PM

ive had a few discussions and from information gathered a few people have noted that DBA rotors with same pads feel better under brakes.

yes you can you high temp brake fluid on the street. all it means is it can with stand what a track day will throw at it better. totally ok for street use.

what shav said about the wheel alignment is right on the money as well.

Beer Baron · 24-08-2011, 07:47 PM

DOT 5 brake fluid is not compatible with all cars so check it out 1st.

Day-mow · 24-08-2011, 09:13 PM

i used penrite Hi-temp. and its a winner

XR_6falcon · 24-08-2011, 10:32 PM

All the above plus a trans cooler since yours is an auto and a full serivce (plugs, oils, filters etc..)

Beer Baron · 24-08-2011, 11:02 PM

Trans cooler would be one of the 1st things on my list if i had an auto. Manually down shifting an auto heats the oil very well.

Sox · 25-08-2011, 08:55 AM

Most has already been covered, but I wouldn't spend to much on fancy brake parts if you're just doing it for fun. Track days wear out pads and rotors real fast.
So by all means get better pads, but don't spend a bomb and expect them to last.
I've started a track day with new pads, and driven home on the metal, so I've chosen cheap but hard pads. They aren't quite as good as the best, but they do the job.

I would also throw on a front sway bar, the XR8's have a fair amount of roll when pushed hard.

Make sure the cooling system is up to scratch as it gets a workout like nothing it's ever seen on the road.

Make sure your engine oil is fresh, and change it again when you get home.

Track days are nothing like like driving on the road, they continually push your car to it's limits.
Treat it nice, and it shouldn't fall apart.

Penarol1982 · 25-08-2011, 10:30 AM

Thanks guys , trans cooler ? what is this ?

blueoval · 25-08-2011, 01:07 PM

A transmission cooler is like a little radiator for your transmission oil. The cooler sits at the front of your car just in front of your radiator. The trans fluid lines run through this cooler to cool the fluid before it makes it way back into the transmission, maintaining it's lubricating properties. When trans fluid gets too hot or is burnt, it loses its protective capabilities to the internal components and will make your gear changes 'sluggish' and horrible. It also places premature wear on components when oil is burnt too.

A trans cooler is added protection for your transmission during times of additional load like towing or hard driving. It will also add more life to your fluid and will prolong the life of your transmission.

To get a heavy duty cooler fitted to your car from a transmission specialist will cost about $350 supplied and fitted. Alternatively you can do it yourself and spend about $120-150 depending on the unit choice. Frankly, $350 is small to pay for not only peace of mind but also longevity of the transmission.

Sox · 25-08-2011, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueoval

A transmission cooler is like a little radiator for your transmission oil. The cooler sits at the front of your car just in front of your radiator. The trans fluid lines run through this cooler to cool the fluid before it makes it way back into the transmission, maintaining it's lubricating properties. When trans fluid gets too hot or is burnt, it loses its protective capabilities to the internal components and will make your gear changes 'sluggish' and horrible. It also places premature wear on components when oil is burnt too.

A trans cooler is added protection for your transmission during times of additional load like towing or hard driving. It will also add more life to your fluid and will prolong the life of your transmission.

To get a heavy duty cooler fitted to your car from a transmission specialist will cost about $350 supplied and fitted. Alternatively you can do it yourself and spend about $120-150 depending on the unit choice. Frankly, $350 is small to pay for not only peace of mind but also longevity of the transmission.

And make sure you completly bypass the original radiator mounted cooler.

blueoval · 25-08-2011, 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sox

And make sure you completly bypass the original radiator mounted cooler.

Yes, sorry forgot to mention that too.

Thanks Rick

robbyj · 25-08-2011, 07:02 PM

also make sure you take enough fuel in your car, it may be heavier, but if you dont take enough you'll end up surging your way around the track.

Also familiarize yourself with their track day rules and regulations. AKA clothing, helmet, other safety precautions.

Penarol1982 · 26-08-2011, 10:43 AM

thanks so much , just to re-cap , brake rotors and pads DBA or RDA ??? high temp trans fluid ??? and a trans cooler ??? Also ill do a service just before and a FULL sevice when i get back and possibly a front sway bar ? If im forgetting anything please let me know ... Ill be going shopping soon LOL

Sox · 26-08-2011, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Penarol1982

thanks so much , just to re-cap , brake rotors and pads DBA or RDA ??? high temp trans fluid ??? and a trans cooler ??? Also ill do a service just before and a FULL sevice when i get back and possibly a front sway bar ? If im forgetting anything please let me know ... Ill be going shopping soon LOL

Rotors - Whatever's cheaper, there's no significant difference between rotors.
Pads - There are big differences here, but you still don't need to spend big $$. Try and find a brake dude who cuts through the BS, I know a hard task...
Trans - Any fluid will do, but make sure you get the biggest cooler which fits.
Front sway bar - Yes, 27mm will do, 30mm if you really want to get serious with slicks etc.
Brake fluid - Hi temp stuff, and flush the complete system.