Common Problems with the AU??

[Fyrestorm]

Ok, can't find the edit button. But I did forget to mention the damaged rear quarter (before I owned it and prev. Owner) and the rust. Behind the front quarter (below top drivers door hinge) and the boot strut mounts and brackets are showing surface rust.

Can't see if I mentioned the lack of roof lining. Started falling down early 2013.

[red_hotxr6]

Wow, previous owners must have really flogged it, presuming of course that you wouldnt do that to your own car...i mean the speed limit is 60, 70, 80, 100 and in someplaces 110....so mate yeah they done a real job on that car.
My EL GHIA was bought new and owned by a principal for 10 years, i have all the services done on the car till 2007 then a 19 year got hold of it, cam, and big exhaust and thrashed the butt off of it. Torque converter, brakes, radiator and just caught the head gasket on it. Three years later and 282,000 klms later its just absolutely a dream to drive...

[TRAU BLAU]

Yeah!A lot depends on how a car has been treated(same as a horse I s'pose or anything for that matter.)Has it been serviced,garaged,driven etc.I've still got to get round to replacing front shockies & brake rotors but I've had nothing like the trouble that gave Betsie the Barge -*** it's name.That's a lot of work.

[Crazy Dazz]

In typical Ford Fashion, they changed the steering geometry for the AU, but didn't get around to revising the sway bar links, so they bend. All our series 1's had bent rods, and the old women doing the inspections don't like this. They fixed it for series 2 onwards, and maybe even late 1's, but the newer links don't fit. Fortunately whiteline now do an EF/EL kit that works.

At some point in time Ford realised that the AU's posterior was almost as ugly as its face, and they started dressing it up with "spoilers." For some reason they decided this could only be achieved by drilling holes in the boot lid and not sealing them properly. This resulted in almost mandatory rusting in the lower boot lip, because the water is channelled there and there are no drain holes. But on the plus side its really refreshing to go into your boot and have fetid water dribble on your neck.

The next issue cannot be blamed wholey on Ford, but also on the idiots in the replacement parts market. If you own an AU, eventually you will need to replace the power-steering pressure switch, which is the automotive equivalent of an appendix. Everyone has one, nobody knows why, and you never notice until it gives you trouble.
The first problem is that it is almost impossible to remove without Ford's special tool. An open crows-foot spanner, and much swearing, will eventually do the job.
DO NOT succumb to the temptation to buy anything but the genuine Ford part, despite the price differential. For some reason, the replacement switches are sealed with a o-ring that simply dissolves on contact with P/S fluid. I kid you not. The original part can last for 10 years or more. The knockoff will start leaking within 6 months to a year.
The solution is to either only buy the genuine part, OR obtain a replacement o-ring in NITRILE.

[TRAU BLAU]

Originally Posted by Crazy Dazz

In typical Ford Fashion, they changed the steering geometry for the AU, but didn't get around to revising the sway bar links, so they bend. All our series 1's had bent rods, and the old women doing the inspections don't like this. They fixed it for series 2 onwards, and maybe even late 1's, but the newer links don't fit. Fortunately whiteline now do an EF/EL kit that works.

At some point in time Ford realised that the AU's posterior was almost as ugly as its face, and they started dressing it up with "spoilers." For some reason they decided this could only be achieved by drilling holes in the boot lid and not sealing them properly. This resulted in almost mandatory rusting in the lower boot lip, because the water is channelled there and there are no drain holes. But on the plus side its really refreshing to go into your boot and have fetid water dribble on your neck.

The next issue cannot be blamed wholey on Ford, but also on the idiots in the replacement parts market. If you own an AU, eventually you will need to replace the power-steering pressure switch, which is the automotive equivalent of an appendix. Everyone has one, nobody knows why, and you never notice until it gives you trouble.
The first problem is that it is almost impossible to remove without Ford's special tool. An open crows-foot spanner, and much swearing, will eventually do the job.
DO NOT succumb to the temptation to buy anything but the genuine Ford part, despite the price differential. For some reason, the replacement switches are sealed with a o-ring that simply dissolves on contact with P/S fluid. I kid you not. The original part can last for 10 years or more. The knockoff will start leaking within 6 months to a year.
The solution is to either only buy the genuine part, OR obtain a replacement o-ring in NITRILE.

I got the local power steering guys to change the pressure switch which was leaking fluid so fast that there was a loud noise coming from the steering rack not long after filing it up.Not sure if they used the genuine part but it hasn't leaked after 3 years.

[cebecebe01]

Hi all, Generally speaking and all else being equal (never is) would you go for AU Fairmont 3 at 235.000 K's or the Forte at 190.000 K's. Price roughly same. Is the premium worth the extra K,s. Any thoughts appreciated. Chris. (ex EL lover.)

[PridenJoy]

I'd go Fairmont just for the cruise control, well worth it.

[xr8 007]

Hey all. Boot light no longer turns on. Fuses are all good and other interior lights work fine. Any ideas what it could be? Also the fuel cap door takes a while to open when pushing the fuel door button, any help will be
appreciated, thanks in advance : )

[Professor Farnsworth]

Originally Posted by xr8 007

Hey all. Boot light no longer turns on. Fuses are all good and other interior lights work fine. Any ideas what it could be? Also the fuel cap door takes a while to open when pushing the fuel door button, any help will be
appreciated, thanks in advance : )

I assume you've tried changing the globe already?

With the fuel door, do you hear the actuator firing every time you push the release button? Or does it only fire intermittently?

[TRAU BLAU]

Getting back to the sticking caliper pistons....is it a common fault?The vehicle had hard brakes when I got it & when I pushed the pistons in just recently the wheel is not getting as hot & also a softer more sensitive brake pedal.Could sticking caliper pistons cause the rotor warping?

[xr8 007]

Originally Posted by Professor Farnsworth

I assume you've tried changing the globe already?

With the fuel door, do you hear the actuator firing every time you push the release button? Or does it only fire intermittently?

Thanks heaps for the reply. The fuel door has fixed itself magically. However the boot light is still no good. I tried different globes to make sure that wasnt it however still no good.

[TRAU BLAU]

Originally Posted by cebecebe01

Hi all, Generally speaking and all else being equal (never is) would you go for AU Fairmont 3 at 235.000 K's or the Forte at 190.000 K's. Price roughly same. Is the premium worth the extra K,s. Any thoughts appreciated. Chris. (ex EL lover.)

Which one(if any) did you choose?Obviously the in individual condition of the Fairmont compared to the Forte would be a decider.

[xr8 007]

Anyone encountered this problem before with boot light not working? Volt meter indicated little to no voltage. Could it be a bad earth somewhere?

[Dauphin]

Recently taking my wheels off, I noticed the front brake pads touch the rotors and slows the wheels when the car was elevated. Is it meant to be making contact when no brake pressure is applied? Or is it meant to be very slightly on the rotor all the time?

[Professor Farnsworth]

Does it touch all the time or just a little on and off as the wheel spins? Warped rotors.

[Dauphin]

From memory it seemed to be right around.

[FTe342]

No its not meant to be touching. If its touching it will be generating heat which is not what you want. Ideally you want it as close as possible without touching. Adjustment at the rotor should be done first with the handbrake cable backed off at the handbrake lever. Then adjust the cable at the lever but if you try to get a nice low lever you usually end up with pads not releasing far enough and get the squeaking as you idle along. Only fix is a high lever if you dont want the annoying squeak

[TRAU BLAU]

I haven't had any problems with the back brakes(except for park brake squeal)it's the front ones that over-heat due to caliper piston stick.Freeing up the brake hose helped.

[Maka]

Originally Posted by xr8 007

Anyone encountered this problem before with boot light not working? Volt meter indicated little to no voltage. Could it be a bad earth somewhere?

Hi mate, haven't had the problem before, though i would check the actuator switch first to make sure its not faulty. Yes checking your earth's would be a good idea as maybe tracing the loom back from the connector plug on the boot light.

Good luck!

cheer's, Maka

[xr8 007]

Anyone had this issue. Rear license plate lights dont work, all other lights work ok? Any help would be appreciated. Checked globes and they are ok as i swapped and tested with new ones.

[Maka]

Hi xr8 007, imo grab a multi meter perhaps & backprobe the power wire at the socket & trace back until you find power. Find the connector, clean it & test it too. Good luck mate!

cheer's, Maka

[xr8 007]

Thanks Maka, I tried that with the boot light and its alot of work as carpets and trim need to be pulled apart etc. What I may try is re wire it to the tail lights separately, just enough to not attract police attention.

[Lethal78]

Hi guys I have a problem with my 2001 au falcon ute 6cyl petrol. While idling in park it sits on about 1800rpm but will drop to 1000rpm with aircon on. My wife has been driving it for the last month and finally decided to tell me its been doing it for about a week. Any help will be appreciated. Cheers Lee.

[Maka]

Hi Lethal78, try cleaning your throttlebody & iac valve & see how that goes. If that doesn't do the trick, it could be a faulty sensor so get the ecu scanned for fault codes. Good luck!

cheer's, Maka

[Lethal78]

thanks Maka will give it a go