AU Questions & problems

[~Nudge~]

Hey Guys

I have a few things im trying to find out.

Thermostats: Whats the stock setting? 80 degrees? Im thinking of changing.

Stallies/Torque Converter: Standard is 500rpm, what are people running? Does anyone have anything about 2200rpm? How is it?

Air Boxes/Intakes: Besides G&Ds new box done with Caspers car, what else is around? Just out of curiosity. I dont believe my snorkel is in the best spot now with a Boss bonnet on.

Electronic Shift Kits: I keep hearing mixed stories about these, is there any Transmission experts out there that can tell me if theyre safe or not?

Why all these questions you ask? Well basically my car is majorly sucking at the moment. I have really sluggish take offs, bottom end up until 2500rpm - 3000rpm is a joke. I have a Auto box which appears to be slipping or maybe a torque converter on the way out. Basically its a 4 clyinder in disguise. So far im lead to believe its something with the gearbox or the Unichip tune, but has anyone else got any ideas?

[EvilChief]

Originally Posted by ~Nudge~

Thermostats: Whats the stock setting? 80 degrees? Im thinking of changing.

wouldnt bother ...

Originally Posted by ~Nudge~

Stallies/Torque Converter: Standard is 500rpm, what are people running? Does anyone have anything about 2200rpm? How is it?

where did u find out that standard is 500? : last time checked it used to be 1800 ...

Originally Posted by ~Nudge~

Air Boxes/Intakes: Besides G&Ds new box done with Caspers car, what else is around? Just out of curiosity. I dont believe my snorkel is in the best spot now with a Boss bonnet on.

you can always get a pod filter and GT airbox, or go DIY style and put a new air feed from the bumper into the airbox

Originally Posted by ~Nudge~

Electronic Shift Kits: I keep hearing mixed stories about these, is there any Transmission experts out there that can tell me if theyre safe or not?

people say that they increase the life span on the bands due to less overlap henc eless friction, however harsher shifting patterns result in stress on other driveline components. I havent had an auto for long enough to see positive or negative effects as yet

[Mechan1k]

stall converter of 500rpm ... you'd stall when selecting D ... hee hee

I think the stock standard thermostat setting is 92 deg C isn't it (ie: when the guage stops heading to H)

[JC]

Originally Posted by Mechan1k

stall converter of 500rpm ... you'd stall when selecting D ... hee hee

I think the stock standard thermostat setting is 92 deg C isn't it (ie: when the guage stops heading to H)

Correct. 1800rpm is the standard stall speed. 92C thermostat also right.
Shift kit is only worth 0.1sec to 400m, so not really going to fix the sluggishness.
Take the car to Tuggeranong Transmission and Brakes - they will tell you what's wrong with it.

Hey Nudge - what do you expect from a six - you know they can't pull the skin off custard, and now that you've added LPG to the mix, I don't think it could even find the custard! LOL.

[Racecraft]

change the diff to 3.7's or 3.9s to fix the go slows, the rest isn't going to make a huge difference for the price you pay..

[~Nudge~]

Originally Posted by JC

Hey Nudge - what do you expect from a six - you know they can't pull the skin off custard, and now that you've added LPG to the mix, I don't think it could even find the custard! LOL.

The point is i had 137rwkw, now with no changes at all I have 108. I have a mate pulling 151rw out of an N/A EF 6. Trust me if you drove it, yould feel faster in a 3 cylinder charade. Its not just on gas, its on fuel as well.

Basically im going to go through the whole car and change all the possible weaknesses, so it runs right.

[Mechan1k]

No custard to even have a skin for me to try (will not finish the sentence as it sounds wrong.)

I am making a hair under 100rwkw in my AU EGAS ute ... and it only has 2.5" catback system ... redline filter and snorkel added ... so you have more power than I do.

[QUOTE=JC]
Shift kit is only worth 0.1sec to 400m, so not really going to fix the sluggishness.
Take the car to Tuggeranong Transmission and Brakes - they will tell you what's wrong with it.

QUOTE]


Does Terry still work there? ,he can be very helpful ,looked after my XR's very well ,and drives a ford now and then :

[JC]

Yep, Terry and Mark are still there. They are both very helpful guys. I reckon any places that keeps cabs on the road is good enough for me.

[XR6-VCT-2000]

With all the above explained pretty much anyways , i'll just add my 2 cents on what maybe to expect from a shift kit , from my experience in older cars anyway- . From what i can tell/feel of the auto in the xr , with the adaptive learning auto anyway, if you drive it around hard for a while then i recon u'll get the 'rough' idea of what it would be like with a shift kit, except it would be changing as hard (how it whacks into the next gear) all the time even when driving it soft with the shift kit. Basically the adaptive learning auto in the XR when booting it feels sotra like the auto setups with shift kits i've had in previous older cars... I havent driven a xr with a shift kit in it , so it could be totally different to what i just explained , so don't quote me on it ! ..lol .. Seeing the newer auto's these days shift alot harder standard anyway , then i wouldn't be suprised if you could expect a bit more than what i just stated above .. I'de also like to hear more from anyone with a shift kit in the xr with the adaptive learning/shift auto. Also as mentioned above , i also noticed with a shift kit that the driveline components took a major beating , especially the universal joints on the tailshaft in my case anyway in the past. But gee they were good ..lol

[Bucknaked]

Silly question, but its an auto. So what good is a shift kit. To try to get from park to drive really quickly. I think if you wanted something to shift, should have bought a manual.

[XR6-VCT-2000]

Originally Posted by Bucknaked

Silly question, but its an auto. So what good is a shift kit. To try to get from park to drive really quickly. I think if you wanted something to shift, should have bought a manual.

A shift kit or a quickshifter-(if u wanna shift manually) is great for 1/4 mile runs with an Auto, knocks a tadd of time off, as much as im an 'old-man' auto boy these days..lol , i gotta agree that if you want something for ripping around the streets or a track then nothing beats a manual ;) .

[Racecraft]

Originally Posted by Bucknaked

Silly question, but its an auto. So what good is a shift kit. To try to get from park to drive really quickly. I think if you wanted something to shift, should have bought a manual.

Buckie, the shift kit he refers to increases the line pressure or adjusts the S5 solenoid to make the gears change faster.. It reduces the 'floating' between gear changes

[Bucknaked]

Originally Posted by XR6-VCT-2000

A shift kit or a quickshifter-(if u wanna shift manually) is great for 1/4 mile runs with an Auto, knocks a tadd of time off, as much as im an 'old-man' auto boy these days..lol , i gotta agree that if you want something for ripping around the streets or a track then nothing beats a manual ;) .

How does it work. I know that on my shifter, i just knock it up 1 notch from 1st to 2nd. I'm not sure how ,many other ways there are at changing the gears in an Auto. If it was a manual, I can see the short shifter setup as a benefit. Is the shift kit on the auto does it reduce the lag in the gear changes. So instantly engages rather than a small delay?

Anyway, i'm getting off track here.

[Racecraft]

Originally Posted by Bucknaked

How does it work. I know that on my shifter, i just knock it up 1 notch from 1st to 2nd. I'm not sure how ,many other ways there are at changing the gears in an Auto. If it was a manual, I can see the short shifter setup as a benefit. Is the shift kit on the auto does it reduce the lag in the gear changes. So instantly engages rather than a small delay?

Anyway, i'm getting off track here.

thats it, see my above post.. it is a mod to the trans not the selector

[Bucknaked]

Ok I understand.

[~Nudge~]

Ok, Ive had the cat changed. Made a difference, but I still have the sluggish start off - more than the normal. Turns out the dodgy buggers who originally put my exhaust on, left the original 2 1/4 Cat on, so City Custom fixed the lot up. Now its really 2.5".

Next ill be having the gearbox torn apart and serviced. The diff and a major service are getting done with that, inc Injectors, pumps & filters!

If the gearbox is in bad shape, the upside is, in goes the shift kit & the stally. The diff is being replaced all together, so I can't wait for that.

[Bucknaked]

Sounds like some good plans Nudge. Lets hope it helps to solve a few of your concerns

[SIKSIX]

i would recommend some 3.7 diff gears and an lsd if you havent already got one, my brother has this setup with low series pacie extractors and 2 and 1/2 '' redback, and he is pretty much neck and neck with me besides getting out of the hole :sm_headba thanks to my suicidal clutch.

and look what time i ran and he keeps up very very well.
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[XR6-VCT-2000]

Add a nice stall convertor ( 2500 to 3500 rpm ) and 4.11's in the rear and hold onto ya nuts ..lol , really nice acceleration with 4.11's in the rear , allthough on a 1/4 mile you'll prolly find yourself hitting 4th gear ! , weather thats slows ya down a bit or speeds times up a bit depends on the gearing in ya auto, definatelly throws you back in the seat on take off though . Just my 2 cents worth .

[~Nudge~]

hah 4.11's is too high. Im doing 373s and lsd. Stallys they have trouble getting them working above 2200 - according to Terry at Tugs, ill see how we go with that.

Choca has 373s on his EF 6 and it hammers.

[XR6-VCT-2000]

Originally Posted by ~Nudge~

hah 4.11's is too high. Im doing 373s and lsd. Stallys they have trouble getting them working above 2200 - according to Terry at Tugs, ill see how we go with that.

Choca has 373s on his EF 6 and it hammers.

I've never run/had any lower than a 2500 rpm stall convertor ! , and i've never had a problem with them , most my mates run around 3000 rpm stall convertors . You get what you pay for ! . :
The only prob i've known people to have with too large a stall convertor is trying to park the car in a small/tight parking area without shunting other cars ! , imo i personally don't recomend above or around a 3500 stally for general day to day driving, unless you want to have 1 foot on the gas and the other foot ready for the brake permantelly in bad traffic ! .
But with all that above said though , i've only personally ever ran them in cars i had v8's in, same with my mates , the only six i have actually driven with a stall convertor was a mates xu1 torana about 12 years back , that had a 2500 stally in it and ran awesome . I've heard of people having bad experiences with them ( out of balance ) , but as i said , you get what you pay for & sometimes you get ripped off too if not carefull .

If your happy with 3.73 diff ratio then go for it - 3.73 would still be nice ;) - personally im just the kinda person that if im gonna spend the bux i literally want the car to launch, i love that feeling or really being pushed back in ya seat by the g-force , if its mainy a street car and only gets run on a 1/4 mile once in a blue moon , then whats the point of having a car that does 200 clicks or whatever ,imo might as well put all that torque into the lower range , but thats just me ;) , Looking forward to seeing how it all goes , cheers ;)

[Casper]

Originally Posted by ~Nudge~

hah 4.11's is too high. Im doing 373s and lsd. Stallys they have trouble getting them working above 2200 - according to Terry at Tugs, ill see how we go with that.

Choca has 373s on his EF 6 and it hammers.

my stall is a 3000rpm one in the AU.. no problems at all.

Originally Posted by XR6-VCT-2000

I've never run/had any lower than a 2500 rpm stall convertor ! , and i've never had a problem with them , most my mates run around 3000 rpm stall convertors . You get what you pay for ! . :
The only prob i've known people to have with too large a stall convertor is trying to park the car in a small/tight parking area without shunting other cars ! , imo i personally don't recomend above or around a 3500 stally for general day to day driving, unless you want to have 1 foot on the gas and the other foot ready for the brake permantelly in bad traffic ! .
But with all that above said though , i've only personally ever ran them in cars i had v8's in, same with my mates , the only six i have actually driven with a stall convertor was a mates xu1 torana about 12 years back , that had a 2500 stally in it and ran awesome . I've heard of people having bad experiences with them ( out of balance ) , but as i said , you get what you pay for & sometimes you get ripped off too if not carefull .

As for "shunting", I dont know what sort of stall that is because mine drives like a pussycat under 3000rpm. If anything it feels a little sluggish under the stall limit, it certainly doesnt do anything unexpected like jumping forward trying to kill other parked cars.
I think you have the info confused about higher stalls needing you to stand on the brakes at traffic lights. Its the other way around. It takes MORE rpms for them to move off the line (due to the higher slip allowed at lower rpms) therefore the problem is not them trying to move forward at lights but needing a lot more revs to get them moving when they go green.

[XR6-VCT-2000]

Originally Posted by Casper

my stall is a 3000rpm one in the AU.. no problems at all.

As for "shunting", I dont know what sort of stall that is because mine drives like a pussycat under 3000rpm. If anything it feels a little sluggish under the stall limit, it certainly doesnt do anything unexpected like jumping forward trying to kill other parked cars.
I think you have the info confused about higher stalls needing you to stand on the brakes at traffic lights. Its the other way around. It takes MORE rpms for them to move off the line (due to the higher slip allowed at lower rpms) therefore the problem is not them trying to move forward at lights but needing a lot more revs to get them moving when they go green.

Yeah i know what you mean , if your a light footed driver when parking then you could just let it crawl around anyway np , but if not willing to doodle around , from experiences i and mates have had with high stallys too is that soon as they hit they their limit , i've had cars jump at like idle crawling along speed from 0 to just under 3000 , then at 3000 bucked like a horse. Maybe its a problem older stall convertors had ?- mind you i am speeking of stally from around 10 years back , maybe its been improved ? , u tell me plz ..lol , but it definatelly used to happen with tooo high a stally years back , and as i mentioned , in v8's (got that bit more tourqe there too) - maybe thats a bit to do with it ??? , as we are on about 6's here . And yeah sounds normal to me too , slugish under the stall limit as usual , thats what i was on about in the way of if being inpatient/can't wait , and if give it a bit too much while in tight spots u could be shunting stuff if not carefull . ;)

[XR6-VCT-2000]

oh , just occured to me too , the whole time i was on about a high stall with 4.11's , i guess that would make the difference too . ;)