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Old 13-11-2008, 12:52 AM   #451
Swedishmoose
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Default things that are not right

Hello there,


I've just bought a 2000 Falcon Futura in a very good shape and there are just a few little things that I'd like to work on. I thought this would be the right place to ask arround.

1.The plastic frame where the door handle sits in ( I guess it is popped in somehow in the door panel ) is not put in right. Can anyone tell me how I can get the door handle out and place it back in right ?


2. The reading lamps in the back don't work. The bulbs are working but the switch doesn't really want to keep the light on. I guess they are micro switches and they don't even klick anymore. Are those parts expensive do be replaced ?


3. The owner had a dash mat placed on the dashboard. On a really hot day the downside of the dash mat burned into parts of the plastic of the dashboard. Mainly the little hard plastic cover right above the passenger airbag and that really wide plastic panel right in front of the windshield where the air vents are. I don't know if Ford still has got plastic parts available for a 2000 AU model and if so.......can you just unclip those panels or is it a big hassle ?


hmmm...what else is not right , oh yeah

4. If you don't use the keyless entry pad and use the key instead, you can only open the drivers door manually with the key. After actually opening it you just need to pull the drivers door handle and all other doors should be unlocked ( that what it says in the manual ) . I can open the drivers door manually with the key, but the other three doors remain closed after pulling the drivers door handle and the push button on the left side of the steering column which usually locks or unlocks the doors is not working as well. I haven't checked the fuses yet, but maybe someone has another idea what it could be.


5.That whining noise some people were talking about only happens when I do a normal take off from a traffic light...a normal acceleration. It does a soft whining noise until the transmission shifts into second gear. It doesn't happen when the car is going on a highway or when I release the throttle or when I accelerate. It only happens in first gear ( four speed automatic ) until it shifts into second gear.


6. the two front side windows go up and down slowly....I've read about the lubricants you can put on the gaskets to solve that minor problem......where exactely do I have to spray those lubricants on to and wouldn't it cause streaks on the windows when you open and close them again ?



That was basically it. Another minor thing is that the dashboard is ratteling a bit on rough roads. It is somewhere behind the radio and the aircon controls...maybe a loose wire or similar. Do I have to take the whole radio and air con panel off to have a look inside or is there another way to "get in ".
If not...how do I take it off ?


I am happy that I have found a Ford Forum like this one here and I am looking forward to helping where I can and putting in some good ideas.

Thank you anyways in advance for the answers I might get and for any help




Swedishmoose
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Old 15-11-2008, 11:10 PM   #452
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number 4.
had the same problem with the central locking button not working in my wifes au2, i just bought another button from the wrecker for $5, popped the old one out unplugged it and plugged in the new one. Good as new.
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Old 15-11-2008, 11:35 PM   #453
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swedishmoose
5.That whining noise some people were talking about only happens when I do a normal take off from a traffic light...a normal acceleration. It does a soft whining noise until the transmission shifts into second gear. It doesn't happen when the car is going on a highway or when I release the throttle or when I accelerate. It only happens in first gear ( four speed automatic ) until it shifts into second gear.
sounds like classic first gear whining dif noise or 'taxi dif' to me.. it was present in quite a few falcons, especially those with higher usage and km readings (eg taxi's). The problem persisted through some BA's as well, and i believe some BF's.
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Old 16-11-2008, 12:54 PM   #454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DWag
number 4.
had the same problem with the central locking button not working in my wifes au2, i just bought another button from the wrecker for $5, popped the old one out unplugged it and plugged in the new one. Good as new.

Thank you....


I guess I have to get a new button then....


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Old 16-11-2008, 12:58 PM   #455
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Originally Posted by crackersINC
sounds like classic first gear whining dif noise or 'taxi dif' to me.. it was present in quite a few falcons, especially those with higher usage and km readings (eg taxi's). The problem persisted through some BA's as well, and i believe some BF's.

Hi there...

so do you recon I should bring it to a tranni or diff shop ? i am just not sure how much a rebuilt would cost and if the noise would be gone after a rebuilt. I mean, what sense would it make to spend lots of money and nothing will change at the end.
Any idea how much it would cost ?

Thanks anyways

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Old 16-11-2008, 01:10 PM   #456
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best to wait for someone else to answer mate, i've never actually had a dif rebuilt, i've either just put up with the whine, or sold the car. Someone here will be able to answer your question though, just have to wait a little bit.
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Old 16-11-2008, 02:55 PM   #457
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The whining noise is the first gear planetary's in the auto, it is just the way they have worn and not anything to worry about, imo not worth getting the auto rebuilt to get rid of it. Sometimes, but only sometimes it will get better after a tranny service. Which it never hurts to give it a service anyway.
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Old 22-12-2008, 01:04 AM   #458
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Hi I would suggest you get tranny serviced, oil drained and filter replaced.After 90000 clicks oil will be over heating and not helping 1st.To do a diff recon 1800 to 2200,you can do cheaper if you take diff yourself.
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Old 22-12-2008, 02:13 PM   #459
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Don't get me started hehe . I just want some advice on my current problem .
I put on air con yesterday and could smell buring like " bush fire " then the smell of candle wax .
Within a few minutes all i could see was a grey mist " Like when you open a freezer door "
this was coming out of the air vents and and was bad .
Could it be the gas from the air con ?
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Old 22-12-2008, 05:09 PM   #460
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It would be a burning leaf inside your aircon vent. If its gone now, dont stress, unless your car catches fire.
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Old 25-12-2008, 10:53 AM   #461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetspirit
Don't get me started hehe . I just want some advice on my current problem .
I put on air con yesterday and could smell buring like " bush fire " then the smell of candle wax .
Within a few minutes all i could see was a grey mist " Like when you open a freezer door "
this was coming out of the air vents and and was bad .
Could it be the gas from the air con ?
Easiest way to tell if it's the gas is if your ACs still working, if it is it's not the gas... also in spite of the fact that the gas is proclaimed to be odourless on the 2 occassions where I have had the evaporator coil fail on fords it smells like a mixture of wet socks and stale farts accompanied by a cloud of white vapour. the most foul and expensive white vapour you'll ever see. 2 airconditioning places I went to for quotes, on learning that it was the evaporator coil that had split simply advised me to sell the car as the cost to remove and reinstall the dash was prohibitive
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Old 27-12-2008, 12:23 PM   #462
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Hi,

It is nice to see this thread still going.

Problems I had with my AU II so far, since new 2001 till today total app 65,000km.,


1) PS high pressure line leak at the pump, replaced the fitting.

2) Alternator troubles due to PS oil getting into alternator and wasting away the slip rings inside. New alternator ($235). Lessons learnt If the PS pump leaks again, fix it at once and dismantle and service / clean / wash the alternator internals immediately.

3) Brake not good as it used to be replaced pads, rotors, serviced calipers and finally the master pump that fixed it. Cause suspect semi storage in the garage for three years.

4) Replaced all shocks.


Only had minor problems, very happy with it.


Cheers,

George V
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Old 28-12-2008, 08:05 PM   #463
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Default Stalling Problem: Engine Management or Gas

Hi Guys,

This is a post for Mum

She has a 2001 AU that has seen some tough times. It is currently stalling as it decelerates (usually at speeds of 25-40 kph although once at 60 kph). The car is dedicated LPG.

The problem is pretty regular and the car has the uncomfortable habit of stalling as you decelerate to nearly every intersection (obviously it is only a matter of time before she ends up with a second vehicle in her boot or the lack of steering puts her in a gutter or worse).

The problem is obviously very serious. The car has done 338 000 + and due to a lack of folding cash she has not had it serviced in some time (despite my protestations). I have a feeling it might be a gas problem or a computer problem but as she needs to get this fixed with the minimum amount of time spent by some ford mechanic in diagnosing it I was wondering whether anyone has experienced this b4 or could narrow it down for me.

I'ld be happy to pass on any of your questions if you need more info.

Thanks in advance.

Trent
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Old 31-01-2009, 01:01 AM   #464
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[QUOTE=SVR73]So far I've had a dream run with AU's.

It's best to spray lanolin or other rust preventative into those rear corners of the AU sedan boot.


Hi there.....


do you mean those two big holes on the left and right side of the boot which reach into the c-pillars ?They are allways dirty and hard to clean, right ?


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Old 02-03-2009, 08:55 PM   #465
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Hey Guys

My S1 Fairmont.
The lights were dropping out when flicking to high beam.
Now, Nothing.

I think maybe there could be a problem with the breaker fuse under the bonnet.
But i would have thought, once it blew that you'd have to replace it.

Is there anything else anyone can think might have happened.

Started intermittently dropping out when flicking to highs, ususally for a second or two.
Now, only lows work. Parkers still good too.


Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-03-2009, 06:12 PM   #466
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1998 AU Fairmont Problems over the past 5 years of owning it:

- Problem & Fix - Approx. Cost

80,000km - New exhaust, brake rotors & brake pads just before I bought it

Power steering rack recall - Ford put a spot weld on the rack bolts so that they cannot undo - $0

Diff Whine - replaced with new diff oil & added an additive to quiten it down + painted some sound deadener underneath the car - Worked a little bit but now (at 200,000km) its really really loud and starting to annoy me. - $50

100,000km - Lower Ball Joints Callapsed - Replaced by ford at a cost of approx $400.

5,000km later Front tyres stuffed as ford didnt do a wheel alignment after replacing ball joints - Fix: Ford replaced them and the rears very very very cheaply - $200

Leaking power steering rack - Replaced with reconditioned rack - approx $300

Fuel pump oversupplying fuel (apparantly according to ford) - replaced with new pump & Injectors cleaned at ford - $300

Collapsed cat due to said overfuelling - New high flow cat. & removing resonators - $300

Car hesitating and missing down low and when accelerating quickly - Replaced leads & plugs.

Car to expensive to run - Put on Landi Renzo Injected LPG System - Cost $3,600

Radiator Header tank split around hose fitting and spewing out all coolant - Fix: Replaced with new header tank - Approx $80 with new Coolant aswell.

Electric Windows slow to wind up - Silicon spray in the tracks - $10

Electric window buttons now working - dis-assembled & cleaned contacts - $0

Electric window button lights not working - Replaced with Blue LED's - $20

Car hesitating and surging - New fuel filter & injector cleaner put through it - $30

Warped rotors - replaced with DBA rotors and new pads $250ish

All boot electronics not working (Boot light, wing stop light, number plate lights & electronic boot release) - Fix: Traced down that the wires had been chopped in half inside the rubber boot leading from boot-lid to car body. Rewired and rejoined the wires, all is well. - $5

Car bent and exhaust busted after reversing into a pole at 60km/h - Replaced with new sports exhaust & new tip - $250 - and replaced front & rear bars with TS50 bars & repaired damage - $ insurance excess $

Car overheating - Replaced thermostat & flushed cooling system & added new coolant. - Cost approx. $70

Gear box flaring (slipping) between gears & not selecting when cold - Gear box stuffed so replaced with new stronger auto & new torque converter - cost $2,200

Idiot next door neighbour backed down the drivers side of my car - Fix: New rear door skin, repair damage to other panels & re-paint the entire side - Cost $2,400 paid in cash by him including hire car while my car was getting repaired.

Front bar smashed while brother driving into a camp site - Fix: repair bar & repaint - $600

Front bar having a 3inch hole punched in it by brothers exhaust after he backed into it - Fix: repair bar & repaint - $600

Shagged lower ball joints again at 200,000km - Replaced for a cost of less than $100. Ford wanted $420ish & pedders wanted $320ish.

Sway bar D bushed shagged - Replaced with nolathane D Bushes - $26

Thats all I can think of right now. Im sure there is more, much more, but mostly little things.

Things Needed to be done this year already:

New suspension (Still original shocks & springs at 200,000km), they still handle surprisingly well.

New steering wheel - Glue has let go and is pretty shagged

Cheers

Col
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Old 07-03-2009, 02:31 PM   #467
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Default soft knocking noise

Ford Falcon Futura AU II ( Nov 2000 )

Hi there....

I have discovered a soft knocking noise ( you have to focus on it to hear it clearly ). It seems to come from the lower drive train ( engine block or transmission ). It only occurs when the drivetrain is warm . It is worse in neutral ( N ) or Park ( P ). When putting in gear it's still there but less frequently.

Do the gear sets in the tranni make any noise when in neutral ? Sounds like something is causing that soft knocking noise while rotating.....or the crankshaft from the engine , or oilpump , or torque converter ?


Maybe anyone knows what it could be ...any ideas ?

Thanks for any idea



The Moose
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Old 07-03-2009, 07:53 PM   #468
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Quote:
Originally Posted by autickfordfairmont
1998 AU Fairmont Problems over the past 5 years of owning it:

- Problem & Fix - Approx. Cost



Car bent and exhaust busted after reversing into a pole at 60km/h - Replaced with new sports exhaust & new tip - $250 - and replaced front & rear bars with TS50 bars & repaired damage - $ insurance excess $

Why were you doing 60k's in reverse?!
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Old 09-03-2009, 11:30 AM   #469
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Default au aircon output

My Little sisters AU fan has dropped its out put down, it will also not switch between fresh and recircle, she thinks it may have sucked a bag up off the floor. I have seen this on a mates EA, but the AU does not seem to have the open plenum facing the floor like the EA-EL, where you could just stick your hand up and retrieve the bag, can anyone help ??
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Old 09-03-2009, 11:42 AM   #470
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It does have the intake there, passenger side footwell same as EA-EL. Only difference is it is much higher up in the dash and further into the corner.
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Old 12-03-2009, 12:16 AM   #471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LG
There is a guy on ebay, that puts his service up for sale to fix the screens. And i've heard of quite a few that have done this and the screens have been fixed with no problem.

Here is the add: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....515112631&rd=1

Or his actual site: http://www.geocities.com/liquidxtal/index.html

He is in Victoria for those who wanna know.


AU 1 Fairmont Ghia

I have just had my Message Display Center LCD screen changed over by the above people and am very happy.

I was initially quoted around $250 by Repco for a changeover unit (self install), but after a quick bit of search work on this forum I found the above.

The changeover cost me $150, total, that included installation.
The new unit is bright and VERY readable in all conditions, and as I have never seen a new one, I am assuming this might be what they were like when new.


A couple of points.
I had trouble getting contact on the mobile number on the website.
http://www.geocities.com/liquidxtal/index_ford.html
So after a couple of days of voicemail and no return calls, I tried the Fax. number out of curiosity, and got a result. (03) **** 1376.

The installation took all of 5 minutes.



*does happy dance*
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Old 18-03-2009, 03:20 PM   #472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shazaam
Why were you doing 60k's in reverse?!
60km/hr road, light rain for the first time in a while, oil slick, car spat out on me unexpectedly and caught me off guard. I controlled it reasonably well missing star pickets and council road work signs while travelling backwards, but ended up catching the road sign. It hit perfectly on my exhaust tip, which ripped out the side of my rear bar, flicking the front drivers side corner in aswell. No damage along the side what-so-ever, just rear right section of rear bar, rear section of exhaust and just clipped the front quarter & headlight and front bar damaging them aswell. 4 other cars went in on the same spot within a matter of 30mins after me, 1 being a 4x4 judging by the tyre marks left in the sand bank. Whatever was on the road was damn slippery, it was like driving along and hitting ice.

Col.
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Old 24-03-2009, 05:21 PM   #473
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Hey people, long time reader first time poster. a problem i have with my au xr8 ute is a sticky accelerator pedal. when driving coming into corner with pedal off, it takes a bit of a push to start accelerating.
Any tips or suggestions guys?
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Old 24-03-2009, 08:02 PM   #474
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My XR8 is the same I managed to reduce it by cleaning the black ring of build up within the throttle body. Only other thing I can think of is that it's worse when I've used the cruise control.
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Old 24-03-2009, 09:04 PM   #475
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Thanks for the reply mate, i do a lot of k's and the cruise control does get a workout. might be causing the problem, as far as the throttle bodys concerned im not that mechanically minded (just the basics) wouldnt even know where to locate it! lol
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