Quote:
Originally Posted by Mondaveo
I'm most anxious/confused about the crankshaft bolt. So we'll need a breaker bar/impact tool to undo the bolt, but then we're also using that bolt with a spanner on to turn the engine over. How is it that undoing/doing up the bolt doesn't just turn the engine, and vice versa? I imagined this is where we like the flywheel locking tool (the timing pin would not be strong enough to hold the engine in place against bolt removal/refitting), but in Howatt's videos he doesn't use the locking apparatus. Is it due to using an impact tool (rattle gun or power bar) and will I need precautions using a breaker bar?
And on the breaker bar, cobrin and rondeo both show/mention an extension to bring the bar out of the wheel well. Is this necessary, or just for comfort so we're not swinging the bar from under the car?
How concerned do I need to be with this talk about the starter motor?
Should really see how I feel doing my next DIY engine oil and transmission fluid changes, but I feel now's a good time to be thinking about it, ahead of buying to get everything on hand.
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Let me clear up a few of your concerns Mondaveo.if I can.
I used a breaker bar (600mm of quality build) simply because I have one for work and it will undo the bolt where as my impact wrenches won't, If I had a decent shop air system and a decent (industrial or strong) impact wrench that'd achieve the same thing without the elbow grease. Now with using a breaker bar you need to lock the engine from turning otherwise you won't be undoing the bolt the engine will simply turn over. It's done up tight, on undoing the bolt it'll crack (meaning jolt as it is undone), it'll do that for some time and still require a fair effort to turn because of the amount of loctite on it. I did both jobs by hand. Don't be unsettled by it, keep undoing till it's off.
This is where the timing setting tools come in handy. Do note though that the cam sprocket pin isn't for locking the engine to get the crank bolt off, it's simply to stop the cam from moving, ensuring that valves stay in position. The flywheel pin locks the engine and to help that the ring gear lock backs it up. On my engine I used the cam pin, a drill bit for the flywheel pin and the ring gear tool. After finalising the verification of the job I only used the Ring gear lock that turned out fine. Last Saturday I didn't have any nuts on hand to use the ring gear lock so I only used the flywheel pin (obviously with the cam pin for the top end) this worked fine also.
The three extensions I used on the breaker bar to clear the bodywork that's it. I could also turn the bar (as much as 180Deg) and keep the socket straight/perpendicular on the bolt head so it doesn't jump off or round the bolt head, I suggest you use a six point socket for this part of the job. It's angle torqued....it's tight, did I mention it's tight?!? it bloody is trust me.
The neighbour I was helping used his battery impact wrench the day before I got there and emptied a 5Ahr battery, it wasn't undone...
Now to the starter motor I removed them on both jobs (not from the engine bay) but moved it out of the way to pin the flywheel and fit the ring gear lock. after not using the ring gear lock I'm not sure you'd need to remove starter at all but I didn't check if you could pin the flywheel with the starter motor in situ. It's annoying because of the things in the way and tight/limited access, I did remove the charge air hose and mounting points to swing the tube out of the way for better access underneath. Not a show stopper but it felt like more time was used on the starter motor than doing the belt/WP/Idler and front main seal combined.
If you were in my neck of the woods I'd happily do it for you...