Clear coated alloy wheels advice needed

[Fairmont06]

Hi all, I'm trying to find out the best way to clean the marks and oxidation that exists on my folks AU Fairmont ghia wheels? I attached a couple photos. I mean to us they don't look too bad, but if it was economical enough to fix em up better that would be good.


Cheers, Ben

[GTP534]

If you could give your location it might help others to provide feedback.

Cheers

[Fairmont06]

Originally Posted by GTP534

If you could give your location it might help others to provide feedback.

Cheers

Yes good idea Thanks. Mossman QLD

[Bevsta007]

https://www.autogeek.net/how-to-clea...at-wheels.html

[Fairmont06]

Originally Posted by Bevsta007

https://www.autogeek.net/how-to-clea...at-wheels.html

Thanks, very helpful tips in there!

[ozpacman]

Hi Ben and greetings from another FNQer,

Mate, you can wash and wax those wheels until the cows come home and it'll not make much difference unfortunately.

The problem is those little spider web looking marks are under the plastic clear coat. Motorcycle alloy parts such as fork legs and engine cases are exactly the same scenario. They look great when they're new but are a pain once the moisture gets under the clear coat. In our humid climate mate that doesn't take long as you know.

Obviously they're coated from the factory to look good for as long as possible with minimal maintenance.

With my bikes, I've found the only successful way to tackle the issue is to remove the clear coat and then polish, polish, polish! Bear in mind also that if you go down this track you'll have to keep the metal polish (Autosol or similar) up to them on a fairly regular basis to keep them looking good, but the results are worth it.

I generally start by using a paint stripper to remove the clear coat and then a fine grade wet and dry sandpaper such as P600 to remove the spider webs. Then its just a matter of polishing them. You could use a small buffing wheel attachment that goes onto a power drill on these wheels quite successfully by the looks of the contours on them.

If you use stripper you would need to remove the Ghia emblem first of course, otherwise the stripper will eat it. You 'd also need to check that the alloy between the spokes is not a painted finish. It looks like a natural finish in your pics, so id reckon it'd be okay. What I would do though is test a bit of stripper on the inside of the wheel first, just to ensure it doesn't stain the alloy.

I just use a domestic/handyman type product such as Selleys Poly Strippa. You don't need a stronger industrial type. If it were mine I'd wait until I was ready for a new of tyres. Get them to remove the old ones and then do the wheels while they're bare. That way you won't end up with stripper stuck in the bead. It's bloody messy stuff and does tend to get everywhere! Wear disposable gloves and eye protection as well mate.

Good luck with it!

Russ.

[Fairmont06]

Originally Posted by ozpacman

Hi Ben and greetings from another FNQer,

Mate, you can wash and wax those wheels until the cows come home and it'll not make much difference unfortunately.

The problem is those little spider web looking marks are under the plastic clear coat. Motorcycle alloy parts such as fork legs and engine cases are exactly the same scenario. They look great when they're new but are a pain once the moisture gets under the clear coat. In our humid climate mate that doesn't take long as you know.

Obviously they're coated from the factory to look good for as long as possible with minimal maintenance.

With my bikes, I've found the only successful way to tackle the issue is to remove the clear coat and then polish, polish, polish! Bear in mind also that if you go down this track you'll have to keep the metal polish (Autosol or similar) up to them on a fairly regular basis to keep them looking good, but the results are worth it.

I generally start by using a paint stripper to remove the clear coat and then a fine grade wet and dry sandpaper such as P600 to remove the spider webs. Then its just a matter of polishing them. You could use a small buffing wheel attachment that goes onto a power drill on these wheels quite successfully by the looks of the contours on them.

If you use stripper you would need to remove the Ghia emblem first of course, otherwise the stripper will eat it. You 'd also need to check that the alloy between the spokes is not a painted finish. It looks like a natural finish in your pics, so id reckon it'd be okay. What I would do though is test a bit of stripper on the inside of the wheel first, just to ensure it doesn't stain the alloy.

I just use a domestic/handyman type product such as Selleys Poly Strippa. You don't need a stronger industrial type. If it were mine I'd wait until I was ready for a new of tyres. Get them to remove the old ones and then do the wheels while they're bare. That way you won't end up with stripper stuck in the bead. It's bloody messy stuff and does tend to get everywhere! Wear disposable gloves and eye protection as well mate.

Good luck with it!

Russ.

Thanks Russ, and good to meet you! Thanks for the wealth of good information and advice. I had a feeling it would take some heavy action to get these wheels in top shape. Sounds like it would be worth the effort and we don't mind keeping the polish up to things.
Yes the wet tropics is a harsh environment equipment, even on people. The car has lived most of it's nearly 20year life in Cairns fortunately always parked under cover car port which of course helps a lot.


I can see how this will be a good messy job, and yeah remove tyres for sure. I'll keep in mind all you've wrote, and let you know when I get around to doing it!

Cheers, Ben

[happy1]

There are shops that will restore the machined surface by cutting off a very thin layer of metal, and re-apply the coating. It will look like factory sparkling new. The problem is that it is (very) expensive.

There is a DIY alternative, You can try to let the wheel rotate at idle speed when the car is jacked up and secured, and use 180-grit or similar sanding paper on a sanding block. (Hold it steady while the wheel is rotating) This should leave a smooth surface, and you will need to re-coat with 2-pack clear to bring out the shine. (This will not be as shiny as the machined surface, but could turn out quite nice anyway). NOTE: Be very careful to not get your jacket or fingers etc. snagged into the wheel if attempting his method.

Cheers,

[ESPJG32]

Have a close look at the machining marks, I had the outside edge of my ESP wheels done...they have what is called a gramophone finish, meaning that the cutting tool actually creates a complete spiral like a record - this is difficult to create and requires an expert machinist to take off the minimum material whilst creating the original factory finish - the re clear coat is the easy bit - it depends on how much of a stikler for the job being exactly original - for me it must be perfect....it cannot be created using anything but a machine tool....up to you