AUII XR8 just lost all power while driving ?.

galaxy xr8 · 29-04-2021, 05:45 PM

Hi all, I just had an episode where I was driving along in the cue (school pick up) where the XR8 just cut out and lost all power, nothing.

I pushed it out of the cue and sat for a moment (5 mins) and tried to start again and it started and off we went home.

Now just prior to this I started the car and drove the 2k's to my children's school but upon starting the car fluffed and coughed a little as if a flooded engine but I just took it as it had been sitting all day and was cold and just had a moment.

Anyway it drove ok to the school which is only a short distance, parked it up and went to get the kids, we all jumped in and joined the cue to exit the school and then while driving at walking pace, it just died !!!.

Lost everything, no instrumentation etc, so this suggest something electrical perhaps ?.

I have been chasing a niggling miss in the car which I found (leads) and have since replaced and all has been good, but now this little incident.

Would coil packs do this sort of thing, as I have had cars before where the ignition module has been the problem and what happened was a very similar incident ?.

Anyway does anyone have any suggestions ?.

Cheers.

**PG2** · 29-04-2021, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by galaxy xr8

Hi all, I just had an episode where I was driving along in the cue (school pick up) where the XR8 just cut out and lost all power, nothing.

I pushed it out of the cue and sat for a moment (5 mins) and tried to start again and it started and off we went home.

Now just prior to this I started the car and drove the 2k's to my children's school but upon starting the car fluffed and coughed a little as if a flooded engine but I just took it as it had been sitting all day and was cold and just had a moment.

Anyway it drove ok to the school which is only a short distance, parked it up and went to get the kids, we all jumped in and joined the cue to exit the school and then while driving at walking pace, it just died !!!.

Lost everything, no instrumentation etc, so this suggest something electrical perhaps ?.

I have been chasing a niggling miss in the car which I found (leads) and have since replaced and all has been good, but now this little incident.

Would coil packs do this sort of thing, as I have had cars before where the ignition module has been the problem and what happened was a very similar incident ?.

Anyway does anyone have any suggestions ?.

Cheers.

Check the regulator in the alternator.

Mate, I always suggest this as we were chasing a very similar thing in my XR8, as soon as it was caught in heavy traffic and/or a load put on the electrical system it would not run properly.

galaxy xr8 · 29-04-2021, 07:18 PM

It has a whirring sound that to me is coming from the alternator, I thought the sound might have the been the Cam sync but it's a real whirring high pitched sort of sound that is coming from near the alternator area I believe.

Where would I find the ignition module if it has one as it's the exact same symptoms as my old laser used to do, would just loose all power and then would start again if left sit for a few minutes but it was just a matter of time till it died once again, till eventually it would die and then never start.

I have noticed that since I changed the leads and plugs out for new ones it felt strong and good yet again but that was a few weeks back now and in the last few days it seems as though it has lost some power when initially stomping on the loud pedal !!, I'm not sure if its just me feeling things or if it has but it feels that way, this is what lead me to think of the coil packs as well, but I'm not sure if they have these sort of symptoms when failing, as in just die completely but start again ?, idle might be a bit on the funny side at times but it's hard to tell as it's always been like this in the 200kw with the cam and its very faint if there is an idea issue or once again I'm just not diagnosing it right ?.

I've also just installed a brand new battery this week and checked the terminals, all tight.

Ben · 29-04-2021, 10:50 PM

My previous alternator made a high pitch whirling sound but the cam syncs can also become noisy. I confirmed mine was alternator with a electrical stethoscope.

Does sound like a loose battery terminal or heat related(electrical). Just a guess.

Do you have access to a multimeter or diagnostic tool to check charge rate and codes.

Double check the leads but this wont be why it cut out.

galaxy xr8 · 29-04-2021, 11:29 PM

I have access to a multi meter,
I checked the Battery leads/terminals as like I said just last week I installed a brand new battery, so just to be sure the leads were tight, and the only thing I found was the negative one could be moved slightly, and I mean very slightly though like from side to side if you grabbed it and used force it would move roughly 2-3mm but as the terminals are slightly tapered downwards the lead never come off or anything, so I tightened it up firmly so that it wouldn't move at all. But would this slight movement be enough to make it loose all power and die whilst driving at walking pace ?.

Do coil packs do this kind of thing if they are on their way out, just die and then in a few minutes all is well again ?. or would there just be a misfire and the engine would still run like it did with a suspect plug ?, thats what I would of thought coil packs would do but I'm not a mechanic.

it's the fact that it just died all of a sudden at such a low speed and to have lost all power etc, to only have it start back up again and get me and the kids home 10 mins latter ?.

With the only other symptom being that it coughed and fluttered when heading to the school to pick up kids just prior to it causing the dying episode ?.

lumen8 · 29-04-2021, 11:50 PM

So the instrument cluster went dead when this happened? If so, don t think its coil packs.

Have you checked battery voltage when its running with multimeter?

Check alternator wire to alt and on the other end also (fuse box) if you havent already, ensure it is tight.

Ive had bad coil packs on AU V8s and never had the vehicles die like that, they just miss and run rough.

Thinking out loud, and given the cluster turns off when the engine dies, a bad ignition switch would be one suspect.

Edxr6 · 30-04-2021, 07:13 PM

Galaxy xr8

When one of my coil packs failed, it felt under powered and as if it was running on 7 cylinders. Still drivable but very under powered. Not long ago, my 220 was missing slightly intermittently while driving, the fault was one spark plug being faulty, changed all plugs with the motorcraft OEM no issue’s, purchased from summit racing in the US, much cheaper than AUS. Sounds like a electrical problem thou. Can you do a scan code.

galaxy xr8 · 30-04-2021, 08:29 PM

I've just replaced all the plugs as it still had the originals in it from day one, I also replaced the leads while I was going as I was chasing a miss fire as well, this has since been rectified but I have noticed a lack of power still, I've owned this car from new and although I haven't driven it for a fair while I know the characteristics of the car and I can tell it is down on power slightly.

I am hoping to get access to a scan tool this coming week, otherwise I do plan to purchase one myself.

11ford11 · 01-05-2021, 10:14 AM

Did you have no instruments or not -
where the reds coming on when it cut out
Possible ignition switch fault
Also check battery voltage and connections including the fuse links at positive terminal

galaxy xr8 · 01-05-2021, 11:24 AM

As it happened I was in the cue trying to leave the school car park so I was a little flustered at the time trying to maintain young kids in the back and pushing the car over to let all the other parents out as there is only one exit onto a very busy main road ?? It was a little embarrassing I must admit that the old girl in all her glory had let me down in such a moment as most of the other parents all drive fancy Merc’s and BMWs etc and here I was in this puddly Falcon XR8 that all the kids loved as it was such a sound to hear when it starts up but here it was being pushed out of the way, lol
But from I remember yes I lost all ignition including dash read out etc,
There were no reds nothing, the damn sun was in an awkward spot as well that made it hard to see , anyone that knows the dash cluster of the AU XR series will know that it’s very hard to see the instrument display in such a situation especially with sun glare.
I sat for 5 mins and started it and away we went,
When I got home I checked the battery voltage, as it’s a brand new battery and that read 12.9v .
Like I said the only thing I noticed was that the negative lead could be moved from side to side very very slightly, it was still on the terminal and it couldn’t be moved up or down but with some force it could be moved around from left to right slightly but it needed to be forced and as the battery itself is clamped down secure I can’t see if this was an possible reason
But anyway I tightened it right up
I’ve checked the voltage when the car has sat over night and the battery is sitting at a steady 12.6v, so all good there
I need to check the alternator next,
I had a look at the fuses and so far look to be ok
I don’t have anything heavy at all on the keys it’s only the key fob and that’s all
The car has only done 72 thousand k’s and I’m the original owner so it has me stumped at the moment, all has been good till this mystery.

11ford11 · 01-05-2021, 11:50 AM

Merc’s and BMW’s also breakdown but they normally wait in the way until someone moves it for them

Multi meter across battery ,start vehicle and check voltage is around 14 volts

Check ignition switch plug near bottom of steering cover (heavy yellow wires and red wires) are not burnt/melted -with car running see if it cuts out by wriggling slightly

undertow · 02-05-2021, 01:46 PM

I'd try wiggling the key and the wiring behind the switch too to see if you can reproduce the fault.

If it weren't for the electrical power cutting out i'd suspect the fuel pump given that it did a cough on start up then cut out and started working again. Would have been a stressful situation playing up where and when it did and with the sun shining it would be tricky to see what's going on. Next time it plays up see if you can hear the pump prime and see lights come on when cycling the ignition.

It's unlikely to be your coil packs, they don't all fail at once. The ignition modules on these are built into the ECU and also unlikely to be the problem.

galaxy xr8 · 04-05-2021, 10:59 AM

Ok all wires etc look good all over, I took the earth cable off the battery and then the engine block and the chassis and cleaned everything, I tested and took some readings first to check the alternator etc and all was ok prior and then re-checked with a multimeter afterwards and all is good with a slight improvement in numbers.

But here's a thought/question..

I have prior to this little engine dying episode replaced the spark plugs, leads with 9mm ICE series 1000 pro, and a new battery, so all the ignition side of things are new and strong, all but the coil packs which are the original units.

Now even though the car has done little work, (72 Thousand k's) but the age of the car is now 20 years, so would these ageing coil packs cause an issue now that all the other components around it in conjunction are new and fresh ??

Could the stalling issue been related to a dying coil pack ?, I ask this question as I thought that if it was the case the coil pack would cause a persistent miss or the car would run rough ?, not just die like it did. But could this be a possibility ?.

Is there a way of testing the coil packs ?.

**98TLS** · 04-05-2021, 12:39 PM

Found this... https://www.fordforums.com.au/showth...ing+coil+packs

lumen8 · 04-05-2021, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by galaxy xr8

But here's a thought/question..

I have prior to this little engine dying episode replaced the spark plugs, leads with 9mm ICE series 1000 pro, and a new battery, so all the ignition side of things are new and strong, all but the coil packs which are the original units.

Now even though the car has done little work, (72 Thousand k's) but the age of the car is now 20 years, so would these ageing coil packs cause an issue now that all the other components around it in conjunction are new and fresh ??

Could the stalling issue been related to a dying coil pack ?, I ask this question as I thought that if it was the case the coil pack would cause a persistent miss or the car would run rough ?, not just die like it did. But could this be a possibility ?.

It is possible, but I figure its unlikely to make the engine die/stall, and then run well when it doesnt play up.

Have you checked the crank position sensor and wires? That playing up will kill the engine in an instant, just putting ideas out there.

galaxy xr8 · 04-05-2021, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 98TLS

Found this... https://www.fordforums.com.au/showth...ing+coil+packs

Thanks mate, i will test mine out.

galaxy xr8 · 04-05-2021, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lumen8

It is possible, but I figure its unlikely to make the engine die/stall, and then run well when it doesnt play up.

Have you checked the crank position sensor and wires? That playing up will kill the engine in an instant, just putting ideas out there.

No I haven't checked that yet, can that be tested ?.

I've also just purchased a ELM327 scan tool, so when that arrives in the post I can hopefully get to work and find some fault codes, (hopefully).

portokatsiki · 04-05-2021, 10:52 PM

Do the new spark plug leads fit nicely on the coil packs? Reason I'm asking is a few years ago I fitted msd coil packs on my au with standard leads, and the leads wouldn't sit properly on the msd coil packs.

pete r · 05-05-2021, 11:35 AM

Years ago I had a 6 cylinder AU that would do a similar thing. Driving along happy as can be when it would just cut out. I'd coast to the side of the road, turn the ignition off, put it into park, turn the ignition back on, everything would light up and it would start then off we'd go. Drove me nuts. Turned out it was the transmission. It was the strangest thing

galaxy xr8 · 05-05-2021, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by portokatsiki

Do the new spark plug leads fit nicely on the coil packs? Reason I'm asking is a few years ago I fitted msd coil packs on my au with standard leads, and the leads wouldn't sit properly on the msd coil packs.

Yeah they seem to fit alright, not as good as the original leads but still they are on.

galaxy xr8 · 05-05-2021, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pete r

Years ago I had a 6 cylinder AU that would do a similar thing. Driving along happy as can be when it would just cut out. I'd coast to the side of the road, turn the ignition off, put it into park, turn the ignition back on, everything would light up and it would start then off we'd go. Drove me nuts. Turned out it was the transmission. It was the strangest thing

When you say transmission, what exactly was wrong that caused it. Do you remember ?.

lumen8 · 06-05-2021, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by galaxy xr8

No I haven't checked that yet, can that be tested ?.

I've also just purchased a ELM327 scan tool, so when that arrives in the post I can hopefully get to work and find some fault codes, (hopefully).

The 327 should tell you if its thrown a code.

Id try inspect the crank sensor wiring for damage first, it can get brittle because of age, the plastic insulation can crack and then the wires can touch each other or the engine and cause problems.

There is a way to test the crank sensor and it is in the 'Engine Control' AU work shop manual that you can find on this site.

Its called Test A: testing crankshaft position sensor.

"Check sensor continuity using ohm meter

Is the reading between 300-400w"

Not sure why they say w and not ohms though.

I have/had a few V8 AUs with high k's and havent had one fail, ive had the cam sensors go bad but not the crank sensor, thats all the way up to 500,000k's with a couple of them.

I guess they can go bad but id check the wiring first, I have had that go brittle and crack, see if you can get a torch in there and take a visual, might be easier if you pull the cooling fans, which isnt difficult on these.

galaxy xr8 · 06-05-2021, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lumen8

The 327 should tell you if its thrown a code.

Id try inspect the crank sensor wiring for damage first, it can get brittle because of age, the plastic insulation can crack and then the wires can touch each other or the engine and cause problems.

There is a way to test the crank sensor and it is in the 'Engine Control' AU work shop manual that you can find on this site.

Its called Test A: testing crankshaft position sensor.

"Check sensor continuity using ohm meter

Is the reading between 300-400w"

Not sure why they say w and not ohms though.

I have/had a few V8 AUs with high k's and havent had one fail, ive had the cam sensors go bad but not the crank sensor, thats all the way up to 500,000k's with a couple of them.

I guess they can go bad but id check the wiring first, I have had that go brittle and crack, see if you can get a torch in there and take a visual, might be easier if you pull the cooling fans, which isnt difficult on these.

Thanks mate, I'll give this a look and see if theres anything to report.

Tickford. · 06-05-2021, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by galaxy xr8

I've also just purchased a ELM327 scan tool, so when that arrives in the post I can hopefully get to work and find some fault codes, (hopefully).

If you've disconnected the battery, then all previous fault codes have now been deleted.

I too think it's CAS related. A faulty CAS will kill the engine (any engine) when it gets hot. Quick way to diagnose, keep a bottle of water in the car. If it cuts out on you, try starting engine straight away. If it doesn't want to start, poor the water on the CAS. If it starts right away, you've found your problem.

**Peuty** · 07-05-2021, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tickford.

If you've disconnected the battery, then all previous fault codes have now been deleted.

True, but the issue should throw a new code when it's started again, if it is something that does throw a code, that is.

galaxy xr8 · 07-05-2021, 06:50 PM

I will hook up the ELM327 and see if any codes are present, and if for some reason they were wiped well I'm sure the issue will and may happen again in the future and then I will have the means to trace the code (hopefully).

I'm interested in researching more about the fuel pump at the moment as some of the findings/readings I've come across tend to relate to this same issue, especially the first symptom that occurred as I started the vehicle after sitting all day on a slope down hill (nose first) and driving off, it was like a flooded engine, going no where and all flat with acceleration and spluttering.