Car Detailing - What products are your go to?

[DFB FGXR6]

My latest article went live today, this time focusing on Armour Detail Supply Wheel Coating.

https://detailingshed.com.au/blogs/a...g-how-to-guide

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...-wheel-coating
https://armourdetailsupply.com/colle...eramic-coating

While this brand has been available for a while in the USA, it has only just landed in Australia. Having imported it directly from the Armour Detail Supply, I've had the chance to use it a few times now prior to its official release in Australia.

While I don't think ceramic coatings are the be all and end all of paint protection, I still like waxes and sealants, however, they make a lot of sense for wheels. No other surface is subjected to as much contamination and abuse than wheels, having a coating on wheels makes cleaning so much easier. And in that regard, the Armour product is a clear winner for durability, slickness and hydrophobic behavior. It's one of my favorite product discoveries.

[bangm001]

Will report before and after results when I get a chance to have a good play! Just ended up with the shinemate ex305 and enthusiast shinemate group of pads. Not in pics is a few more polishes such as rupes DA course and fine which ill also play with, i already have pad cleaners, pad brushes etc in preparation for getting a polisher one day! Will start with the wife's black Mazda which is in desperate need of a polish, it has water marks and swirls etc. Ill then move on to my BA Typhoon in which iv only ever hand polished with autoglym (not a real cutting polish), and has never had a machine polish.



Here's a before pic of the typhoon, which as you can see since i'v owned it from 2007 its pretty much perfect from a small distance, but up close has many very light swirls etc visible using the detailing light, which im hoping get rid of with the shinemate. Its all original ford paint except for the front bar.




Next pic is the GT which had a polish / colour correct by a family friend a few years ago. Still has brilliant depth etc and again all ford paint except for the front bar. if you click on the pics they should go bigger.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by bangm001

Will report before and after results when I get a chance to have a good play! Just ended up with the shinemate ex305 and enthusiast shinemate group of pads. Not in pics is a few more polishes such as rupes DA course and fine which ill also play with, i already have pad cleaners, pad brushes etc in preparation for getting a polisher one day! Will start with the wife's black Mazda which is in desperate need of a polish, it has water marks and swirls etc. Ill then move on to my BA Typhoon in which iv only ever hand polished with autoglym (not a real cutting polish), and has never had a machine polish.

image

Here's a before pic of the typhoon, which as you can see since i'v owned it from 2007 its pretty much perfect from a small distance, but up close has many very light swirls etc visible using the detailing light, which im hoping get rid of with the shinemate. Its all original ford paint except for the front bar.

image


Next pic is the GT which had a polish / colour correct by a family friend a few years ago. Still has brilliant depth etc and again all ford paint except for the front bar. if you click on the pics they should go bigger.


image

Excellent!

Mazda paint is typically soft, so make sure to start with the S30+ and the red pad, stepping to the blue if needed.

[bangm001]

Should I do the same with the typhoon, s30 and red shinemate pad to begin with?

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by bangm001

Should I do the same with the typhoon, s30 and red shinemate pad to begin with?

On the Typhoon, do a test section with the blue pad and S30 first, but you'll probably need S20 with the blue.

[DFB FGXR6]

This is why I think waxes and sealants still have a place....................



At the moment, I have three vehicles in my care with coatings, two of them daily drivers. The coating really makes cleaning so much easier, and keeps them cleaner for longer. Not to mention much quicker to dry. This is especially important on wheels.

But then I see what wax looks and feels like and I suddenly feel nostalgic. If a car spends 99% of its life in a garage, then does one need that ease of cleaning? Probably not. Waxes on the other hand has an edge in slickness and a richer gloss, they also seem to suit non-metallic flat red or white better.

[bfets]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

This is why I think waxes and sealants still have a place....................







At the moment, I have three vehicles in my care with coatings, two of them daily drivers. The coating really makes cleaning so much easier, and keeps them cleaner for longer. Not to mention much quicker to dry. This is especially important on wheels.



But then I see what wax looks and feels like and I suddenly feel nostalgic. If a car spends 99% of its life in a garage, then does one need that ease of cleaning? Probably not. Waxes on the other hand has an edge in slickness and a richer gloss, they also seem to suit non-metallic flat red or white better.

It's still something I'm struggling to work out myself as well. When my new Dark Horse comes, do I keep using wax, or do I ceramic coat it...
One day I'm convinced ceramic coating is the new tech and has the better protection, the next I think the car will be pampered and garage kept anyway so put on it what looks best which is a wax.

[fordomatic]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

This is why I think waxes and sealants still have a place....................

At the moment, I have three vehicles in my care with coatings, two of them daily drivers. The coating really makes cleaning so much easier, and keeps them cleaner for longer. Not to mention much quicker to dry. This is especially important on wheels.

But then I see what wax looks and feels like and I suddenly feel nostalgic. If a car spends 99% of its life in a garage, then does one need that ease of cleaning? Probably not. Waxes on the other hand has an edge in slickness and a richer gloss, they also seem to suit non-metallic flat red or white better.

This is exactly why I only have ceramic coating on my dailys. Even then, I don't think i'll coat the dailys again, it's just so much effort and the water spots become frustrating. They are much more work than a wax. It takes me 45 minutes to wax/seal a falcon and 30 minutes if im using a spray wax. A ceramic takes hours of prep, minimum 3 hours to apply and then constant work to keep in top shape for 2-3 years of life.

I've used my Sportsman as a guinea pig for lots of products. Currently my P250 has Lustre and Jet, my Rebel has Collinite 845, sportsman has Nova Evo on the tops with Collinite 476 on the sides (testing durability of the 476, been 8 months so far and still good), Territory has Nova Evo.

Collinite 845 is still such a bloody good wax. It brings so much depth to the paint.

[jgmdat]

Would this Mustang have the same shine if it was polished rather than coated. Curious because I have only seen videos of Blue Ember after coating.

https://youtu.be/ofCujEVyy58?si=ylPicJIc-knJCey2

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by jgmdat

Would this Mustang have the same shine if it was polished rather than coated. Curious because I have only seen videos of Blue Ember after coating.

https://youtu.be/ofCujEVyy58?si=ylPicJIc-knJCey2

That was polished AND coated.

Polishing (paint correction) is to bring the paint to its ultimate shine, the ceramic coating enhances and locks in the gloss.

Having said that, a wax or polymer sealant can do that as well, with some variation.

Waxes and polymer sealants are said to offer a richer and warmer look.

Ceramic coatings (and ceramic spray sealants as well) seem to produce stark, "candy" like gloss that is much brighter.

Which you like is subjective. I have found my Race Red Mustang, which is non-metallic flat red, looks best with a wax rather than the almost fake looking ceramic spray sealants I was using for a while. Same for flat white.

[jgmdat]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

That was polished AND coated.

Polishing (paint correction) is to bring the paint to its ultimate shine, the ceramic coating enhances and locks in the gloss.

Having said that, a wax or polymer sealant can do that as well, with some variation.

Waxes and polymer sealants are said to offer a richer and warmer look.

Ceramic coatings (and ceramic spray sealants as well) seem to produce stark, "candy" like gloss that is much brighter.

Which you like is subjective. I have found my Race Red Mustang, which is non-metallic flat red, looks best with a wax rather than the almost fake looking ceramic spray sealants I was using for a while. Same for flat white.

Is polishing before coating normal, I have never asked my coating guy if he does that. I use to hand polish in the past but what I like about ceramic coating is everything gets coated. After each wash I use Bead Maker or something similar to give that smooth just polished feel.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by jgmdat

Is polishing before coating normal, I have never asked my coating guy if he does that. I use to hand polish in the past but what I like about ceramic coating is everything gets coated. After each wash I use Bead Maker or something similar to give that smooth just polished feel.

Ideally, you should be polishing before the application of a ceramic coating. It's the polishing and prep work that explains why it can cost four figures to have a car ceramic coated by a professional. So, while the little bottle of ceramic costs about $100 - $130, the money goes into the polishing and prep work time and labor.

Now, I say "should" because you don't need to polish to have a ceramic coating bond to the paint. It's more so that a ceramic coating will last considerably longer than a wax, so you kind of want the paint looking at its best before locking it in for 2 - 5 years. And you will get a much better result in terms of gloss and clarity with polishing.

I have applied Gyeon Can Coat EVO without polishing, mainly because it was a brand new car with minimal to no marring, all I did was a heavy decon wash and IPA wipe down before application. The irony being that I had to polish the car a year later due to water spots, taking the coating with it.

[prydey]

Speaking of coatings, if I use carpro lift in a foam cannon to do my wheels and wheel wells, invariably I get some on the body. Obviously I try not to but there will always be some overspray. Is this an issue or is the small amount not worth worrying about?

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by prydey

Speaking of coatings, if I use carpro lift in a foam cannon to do my wheels and wheel wells, invariably I get some on the body. Obviously I try not to but there will always be some overspray. Is this an issue or is the small amount not worth worrying about?

If the car is coated, products like Lift have been designed to operate within the pH tolerance of the coating itself.

If the car is waxed, I have found that agitation with a high pH produce will knock it around more than if it was left on the surface and rinsed off.

Short answer, I wouldn't stress about it.

[DFB FGXR6]

Glad its not just me..........................

[jgmdat]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Glad its not just me..........................

Makes me feel better about giving my toolbox a coating of Bead Maker.